Small changes, big results! Kazia Pelka answers your queries
This month, our beauty columnist Kazia Pelka shares make-up tips for those who wear glasses and gets to grips with one of skincare’s most powerful ingredients…
Q AI keep hearing people talking about retinol as a must-have skincare ingredient. Can you explain what it is, how to use it and whether it’s as good as it sounds?
There are many ‘superingredients’ in the spotlight at the moment, but retinol is one that has long been rated by dermatologists and beauty editors, thanks to its ability to transform the appearance of your skin. Once applied and absorbed, this vitamin A derivative is converted into retinoic acid, which has a direct effect on the behaviour of skin cells. Not only does it neutralise free radicals, it also ramps up cell turnover and collagen production, tackling acne, fine lines and wrinkles, pores and pigmentation – what’s not to love? The downside is that it can cause irritation, leaving skin feeling flaky and dry. Try phasing it in gradually, starting with products containing 0.3% retinol or less. Apply a pea-sized amount once or twice a week and slowly increase to daily use, making sure to avoid delicate skin around the eyes. When you finish your first product, consider upping the percentage – The Ordinary, Skinceuticals and Medik8 are great brands with plenty of choice. It’s testament to retinol’s effectiveness that many users persevere through this first stage, though some have no problems at all, especially when following the guidelines. It’s essential to use a broad-spectrum SPF
(which protects against UVA and UVB rays) of 30 or above because stimulating cell turnover makes skin photosensitive. Finally, think about packaging – exposure to air and light will render your products ineffective. Dark glass, opaque and airtight options are best.
‘Retinol tackles acne, fine lines and wrinkles’