MOTO GUZZI SP REVIVAL
Many old bikes apparently ‘just need recommissioning’. But what exactly does that involve? Nolan Woodbury returns a laid-up 1980 Spada 1000 to the road, and suggests techniques and tips to help revitalise Guzzi’s two-valve big twins
Many old bikes apparently ‘just need recommissioning’. But what exactly does that involve? Nolan Woodbury returns a laid-up 1980 Spada 1000 to the road, and suggests techniques and tips to help revitalise Guzzi’s two-valve big twins
The question of what makes the Moto Guzzi Spada 1000 a standout motorcycle is easily answered. You can spend hours or days in the saddle, and at any moment a quick downshift up the rise brings the engine to 5000rpm and readies the throttle, producing a satisfying burst as you carve fully packed towards the summit. The forgiving chassis, powerful brakes, low, narrow build and steel pipe durability are commonly accepted accolades, and that’s part of the point. The SP is excellent because it’s a quintessential Moto Guzzi. The Spada differs from the sporting Le Mans in its comprehensive fairing, and it was reconfigured for a more relaxed riding experience. But underneath that you’ll still fine a thoroughbred sports bike. A bit of background is needed here because the renovation of this 1980 Guzzi 1000 SP involves a motorcycle that both is and is not typical of the breed. A touring engine, the 949cc ‘small valve’ came originally with square-slide 30mm Dell’Ortos, 9.2:1 compression pistons and a fairly pedestrian advance curve. Using the modular practice, Guzzi fit the same engine, frame and suspensions under different body treatments for decades, including the standard V1000 G5, American CX 100
edition, and Convert during the 1000 SP’s first production run from 1978 to 1983. Most of the process and application – if not exactly the same parts – apply to most carburetted two-valve Guzzi twins, starting with the V7 Sport, onto the 850s, all of the post-1975 949cc models, Le Mans 850 and 1000, then extending to the pre-FI California until 1996. The wide production overlap is a handy bonus.
The unique qualities of this machine reflect how it was used to some extent, but mostly where it ran the roads. In my family since October of 1980, this SP’s import destination was the southwest Sonoran desert in Arizona, USA. That lack of constant moisture means this bike escaped the rust and corrosion which earned Guzzi plenty of criticism during 1970s, and the SP’s thin semi-gloss has fared well. But rot comes in different forms, and here the heat’s intensity will eventually crumble the plastic and rubber of anything subjected to prolonged exposure.
For the last decade-plus this early sportstourer sat covered, gathering dust in an unplanned storage. The preparation wasn’t particularly thorough, just draining fuel and removing the battery. The sabbatical ended mid-2016. As a one-owner, mostly original machine our desire is to keep it that way, and not just for sentimental reasons. As with any non-runner you might find on offer, knowing the machine’s history has its advantages. The work is made easier with the factory workshop manual, and I’d suggest adding the Haynes version too.
I benefitted from having a capable partner in the shape of my son Alex, and we focused on the chassis first. It had covered 55,000 miles and turned freely, so I was confident the engine’s internal components hadn’t suffered. Just 15k had passed since installing a new clutch and alloy timing gears. The first order was to strip, inspect and photograph every part of the machine prior to cleaning, paying close attention to cable routing as much care had previously been taken setting up the non-standard 36mm carburettors and Delrin manifolds. A list was made of the cracked rubber and plastic, and we sorted all screws and hardware in a safe location, with labels.
Under the dirt some damage was revealed; the rear master cylinder was a major reason the SP had been parked and it leaked, bubbling all the paint under it. Part of Guzzi’s patented braking system, which uses a proportioning circuit through the foot brake to activate the rear and left front discs, a rigid connecting line runs the length of the frame. Clutch pull was easy, but the throttle was stuck and nearly all of the control rubbers, grips, and original wiring loom ties were giving way. After draining all remaining fluids, a measured stack of wooden planks were wedged under the sump to support the front and the wheels were removed.
Cast by FPS in Italy, the SP’s alloy rims were factory original, right down to the grey finish. Keeping the old tyres on for protection, the brake rotors were removed, noting the bolthead side for reassembly. The sealed bearings were driven out, then hours of scrubbing followed. Our parts vendor in Wisconsin (MG Cycle) lists the replacements as #92204221 and #92204220 (front and rear) with each wheel taking two bearings. Don’t forget the matching spacers (marked by us as front and rear) that fit in-between to match with the bearing’s inner race. The spacer is a critical component, and when driving the bearings in, you need to leave a few thousandths gap for the final tightening of the axle.
Despite being greased at every tyre change, the SP’s rear drive spline showed heavy wear, so it and the cush drive blocks that live underneath were removed. The cush drive was cleaned and reused, and the replacement spline is an aftermarket part from MG Cycle. Finally, the SP’s one-piece Brembo rotors were resurfaced using my own grinding service, and the wheels came together looking new with a fresh set of Dunlop 404s in 100/90 and 110/90 x 18. I’ve come to appreciate the modestly priced 404s, which offer great handling with moderate wear.
In addition to the clutch and gearset, the
SP was fitted with a new U-joint and carrier bearing, uprated 4mm input spline, a turned flywheel and surface-ground intermediate plates, so the swinging arm stayed in place. As they looked dry and chalky, the steering head bearings were removed, cleaned and regreased, allowing us to detail this very busy section of the SP’s chassis.
The shaft and rear bevel components were touted as a ‘maintenance-free’ feature by Guzzi, so many owners ignore them, which makes rear drive issues common on the big twins. A failing universal joint can be diagnosed by tight spots when rotating the wheel or excessive footrest vibration. Pulling the swinging arm can be done with the tools under the seat, but you’ll need a few more items to replace the shaft’s carrier bearing, located in the right swinging arm tube.
For the brakes, we’ve had good luck with the 15mm Brembo master cylinder rebuild kit (#17659350) but I have no experience working on the smaller hand brake circuit. As usual, it needed just a simple flush. Snapping corroded bleeders is common on the F08 Brembo twopiston caliper, which should be soaked for a day or more with penetrating oil. That said, we busted one off the SP’s frame-mounted proportioning valve. In the interest of time we replaced it with a less sophisticated diverter/ manifold from a V1000 Convert.
As with any internal combustion engine,