Real Classic



The non running Triumph T25 in Frank'sshed might, as Paul Goff suggests, be cured by fitting a Pazonelect­ronic ignition. I've spent my childhood, working life and 10 years of retirement around things automotive and have been involved in diagnosis and repair since I was old enough to tighten nuts with spanner. I was somewhat taken aback by Mr Goff's ability to make such a precise analysis at such a distance.

Yes,the Pazonis a good and respected system and I have used them in two of my rebuilds. But my assessment would be firstly let's not forget the simple th ings and ask if some form of livestock set up home in the exhaust and left a blockage? This would probably require a hands on experience­d ear and senseof touch to diagnose without dismantlin­g. With a bit of luck it should be a relatively simple job to remove, shake and blow down to assessfree gas flow and a lot easier than replacing an ignition system and then find you still have problems.

Next, if the engine shows compressio­n every time you kick start it, and if when it does run there are no major noisesthen the big lump is most likely Ok.that leavesthe two most troublesom­e items of most petrol burning internal confusion engines, the fuel and the ignition systems.

I have read many magazine articles where Diyershave cured much smaller and much bigger problems by replacing a carburetto­r, but let's not jump in too deep. I would suggest dropping the carb float bowl and assessingt­he amount of dirt. Don't forget also that the smallest hole is in the pilot jet, which should be removed and if possible blown through with compressed air. That leavesthe ignition system.i focused on the picture of the points area and those red connector things. My many years of experience tells me that usually when you pull them apart, the metal parts are covered in a furry mess which with a bit of luck allow reasonable transfer of current when at 12V. Unfortunat­ely these are operating where (depending on individual systems)they areonly required to carry 1 2V as a signal to the rest of the system. This is usually the weakest link in any sim ilar system. My experience also tells me that car manufactur­ers had such problems and had to resort to heavy investment in gold connectors to cure repeated problems in this area of a system.

Again, a quick look at these connectors would be a lot easierthan replacing the system. Once you 've confirmed that it does work at some level and if you can make this work, you would not then need to get involved with those stroboscop­ic things. Good luck!

Dave Spain, member Part of your diagnosis is correct, as you 'll see from this photo showing the actual problem. This was of course discovered and fixed only after fitting Paul Goff's excellent Pazon unit! Paul's diagnos ti c skills are of course assisted by his position as a noted purveyor of electrical bits many of which I've bought and used down the years, and he's been a staunch supporter of Rc,too.

Youwill possibly be pleased to learn that the bike is now running well if verysmokil­y- and I'm enjoying it so much that I might actually write up the riding experience! Frankw I have a similar TR25W to Frank 's T25SS. Your spare gasket may yet be handy unless you spotted this prior to refitting the primary chain cover . The photo with the primary chain case removed shows that the bottom left clutch spring screw has unwound a tad more than the others. The right hand one looks suspect too, with the spring poking out sideways. Th is means the centre plate lifts unevenly and you ' ll eventually lose the clutch operation.

There are pre drilled screws so you can lock wire them up to avoid that problem .

Jez I'm not sure (!), but it may be that the photo is misleading . Here's another from a slightly different angle. All I checked with the clutch was that it lifts evenly and it does, and then once the engine was running again that it operated smoothly and progressiv­ely , which it does. It's inev itable that I'll take i t apart aga in at some point (isn't it always the way?) and at that point I think I'll fit a set of new springs. I've built clutches before where one or more of the springs has lost tension so when you 're aiming for a smooth release I grip the nuts end up at d ifferent heights.

Pal of ours has a TR25W and absolutely loves it. Mind you, he runs a T760 Trident so is plainly braver than I! Frankw

I appreciate­d Frank's saga of the Triumph 250 bash plate, particular­ly the diagram (filched from the workshop manual) of the oiling system, and the photo of your own Triumph. I have a B25ssand all the diagrams in the various books agree with your diagram. However, my spares manual does not agree with the diagram. It shows a fitting like your own which also matches the fitting on my B25SS.

Something obviously went wrong with the agreement between the manufactur­ing side and the design side. The main problem I have with mine is its appreciabl­e propensity for leaking oil from the engine. Otherwise it is a nice bike.

When I was given the BSAIT was in large lumps with no barrel and the wiring was a mess. I acquired a replacemen­t barrel and piston (it's now on + 60) and rewired the whole thing. The handlebar switchgear are modern Japanese and I've put electronic ignition on it. I've also installed modern light bulbs, courtesy of Paul Goff.

Steve Share, member 12,944 As the oily-frame T/825 has a replaceabl­e oil filter and the 850 does not, apparently due to their different big end design, I wonder whether the illustrati­on showing a mesh filter at the baseof the front down tube was intended for the 500 singles, and the factory simply didn 't bother drawing another for the 250. And asyou say, the parts book shows the correct fittings. Good luck with your 825! Frankw

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