THE RED CHEAT SHEET: HIGHLIGHTING

Get the most out of this beauty trick

WHAT IS IT?

Highlighting originated in 1920s Hollywood, where light-reflective products were used to prevent actors’ faces looking flat on camera. It’s been adopted by make-up artists ever since, as lighting high points of the face creates a flattering and youthful look. The current resurgence of highlighting is partly due to social media (where it’s been rebranded as ‘strobing’), but the concept of creating brightness and lift is the same. And it’s not as complicated as tutorials would have us believe.

WHY DO IT?

Unlike contouring, which creates shadow and depth, highlighters bounce back light to give a natural lit-from-within glow, making areas look plump and defined. Using highlighters under eyes can mitigate lines and sunkenness. The same goes for the other areas: temples, cheekbones, Cupid’s bow, or any area you want to ‘bring forward’ – you’ll imbue it with a prominence and fullness that’s very youthful.

WHAT SHOULD I USE?

‘For a natural look, highlighter should have just a hint of shine,’ says make-up artist and Max Factor UK ambassador Caroline Barnes. Opalescent shades work for fair skin, but medium and dark complexions need warmth from golden tones. You can also use lip balm or facial oil – they’re ‘skin-coloured’ by default and bounce light in exactly the same way. Cream or liquid-based formulas melt easily into skin, but powders last longer and are good for oily complexions.

HOW DO I APPLY IT?

Think of highlighting as jewellery for the face – it should be the last step in your routine and layered on after foundation, blusher and bronzer. Pat cream and liquid formulas on with a ring finger, while for powders, a small, soft tapered brush provides control and precision. Afterwards, lightly work a clean beauty blending sponge over cream and liquid highlighters, or a fluffy brush over powder, to smooth out any harsh edges and blend it into the skin for a seamless finish.

ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO KNOW?

Too much highlighter makes skin look greasy, and even those with drier complexions should avoid the T-zone where skin is naturally more glowy. We find that powder highlighters can look harsh and prefer cream-based formulas, as they’re easier and softer to blend. With make-up in general, it’s easier to layer similar textures together – cream with cream, for example – but don’t let that stop you experimenting with different products to find a finish that works for you. Still unsure? A face primer with light-reflective pigments is a good starting point – it’ll give a subtle glow that you can build up wherever you want some extra shine.