SKI SLOPES IN NISEKO, JAPAN
As far as bucket-list destinations for snow enthusiasts go, Japan is up there with the best of them. But at first, we find this hard to fathom because where we’re headed is only 300m above sea level, whereas the average base altitude of Alpine resorts is about 1,200m.
Refreshed from a night’s sleep in our swanky townhouse (more on this later), we are basking in a ‘bluebird sky’ morning when we overhear a complaint about the weather. But surely this is the stuff of dreams? Apparently not. Skiing in Niseko is about the powder. In fact, it’s globally recognised for its heavy snowfall and ‘Champagne powder’.
Mount Yotei dominates the Niseko skyline, and it’s thanks to the influence this volcanic beauty wields over the weather patterns that snow falls at all. This is not the unpredictable powder of the Alps; this fresh snow is consistent and dry. During peak season (January to mid-february), you can expect daily top-ups of between 10cm and 40cm. It’s called the White Season for a reason!
These duvets of snow are unfathomably deep, so you had better pack the low-light goggles and be properly suited and booted. To the uninitiated, the severity of the snowfall is eerie, yet its dominating whiteness soon becomes calming. If my first few runs teach me anything, it’s that gliding on this powder, however blissful it may feel, exaggerates my mistakes. So, if you are ever going to improve, this is the place to do so – especially as you can practise short, sharp turns, skiing between the mystical shirakaba (white birch) forests beside the pistes.
Four resorts (Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu and Hanazono) interlink in Niseko to offer plenty of skiable terrain, including a lot of backcountry and off-piste access for adrenaline junkies. But these are not the long, thigh-burning runs I’m used to: they are fast, quick loops. Though admittedly, a more modern lift system would make these loops faster (all in the pipeline).
The après-ski in Niseko is refined, and relaxing in the onsen at YTL Hotels Green Leaf Niseko Village is a must: a mineral-rich rock pool drawn from a natural spring, which soothes aching limbs. The dining options are rich and colourful and, as Hokkaido island is famed for its fish and seafood, expect to see sea urchin, grilled tsubodai (amazing), king crab and snow crab aplenty, along with the more daring shirako, or cod sperm sacs to the uninitiated. My favourite is shabu-shabu, which gets its name from the swishing of thin slices of beef in the hotpot (nabe). For drinks, Bar Gyu+ (aka The Fridge Door) in Hirafu is a joy, thanks to its whisky and yuzu martinis. Oh, and a trip to nearby Milk Kobo is imperative. It’s full of sweet cheese tarts, pastries, ice creams and choux buns with chilled custard.
Back to my townhouse. While Niseko may not have the aura of ancient Japan (it feels a little purpose-built), residing in a YTL Hotels exclusive Kasara Niseko Village Townhouse sees me enveloped by refined luxury. It delivers Japanese architectural charm with contemporary elegance. I may have only used the kitchen to make a cup of tea, but you can pay for a private chef to do it justice; though do try the inclusive breakfast at the Green Leaf hotel and marvel at its array of foods.
My advice would be to add Niseko to your bucket list of destinations and tick it off before it becomes too popular. This is truly a resort where those seeking to carve the corduroy-groomed slopes and those in search of autographing off-piste powder can unite in winter-sport bliss. MEIKE BECK
TRIP NOTES Seven nights in a three-bedroom townhouse (room only) at Kasara Niseko Village Townhouses, including flights and private transfers, costs from £2,625pp, based on six people sharing. Visit skisafari.com