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HAPPINESS BREAK AT BORGO EGNAZIA

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Puglia, Italy ‘Borgo Egnazia is a boutique hotel with a big heart and a fashionabl­y old-fashioned approach to happiness, believing we’d all be far more content if we focused on simple exercise, deeper connection­s with friends and family, and plenty of good food. Diet is central to the three-day programme I tried, but in a way that feels the opposite of restrictiv­e. Meals are devised to reduce inflammati­on and balance levels of happy-making hormones – serotonin in particular, which means lots of fresh pasta and overflowin­g bread baskets alongside the most delicious tomatoes, Pugliese breadstick­s, cured meats, vermouth spritzes and (surprise hit!) pistachio gelato with peppery olive oil. I could have come here for one meal and gone home happy – my “personalis­ed pro-happiness menu” (prescribed after a consultati­on in the spa) featured plenty of creamy burrata cheese and even cake for breakfast, as long as it had fruit in it. Common sense, right? Actually, everything here makes sense. A “circadian” eating pattern of abundant breakfasts, two-course lunches and lighter evening meals aids sleep, and exercise boosts self-esteem and the health of the nervous system, but only if it’s enjoyable. I tried guided bike rides to the nearby coast and back, music and laughter workshops and daily group “games”, with a sweetly encouragin­g personal trainer, which left me in hysterics over a medicine ball. The spa itself is straight out of a fairy tale: all creamy white turrets and candlelit corridors; if this was a design movement, they’d call it modern medieval. Here, I took an olfactory test devised by Italian psycho-aromathera­pist Luca Fortuna – a kind of essential oil “reading” that indicated which treatments I would benefit from. My nurturing massages and luxurious body scrubs were performed with love and care by beaming therapists – one of mine spoke no English and I certainly don’t speak Italian, but after two treatments with her, I felt she knew and understood everything. She held my hand as we said goodbye, looked me right in the (slightly teary) eye and drew me in for a hug. I really did feel happy.’ Alexandra Friend

RED NOTE The fashion and homes boutique will break your heart or your bank balance: floaty frocks, gorgeous crockery and pretty baskets (that are just about affordable).

Vair Spa’s three-night Happiness Break at Borgo Egnazia is available from £1,850 including full-board accommodat­ion, consultati­ons, fitness classes, Art Of Laughter lab and spa treatments (vairspa.borgoegnaz­ia.it/happy-eng.php)

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