A GOOD EGG This appetiser is simple yet sophisticated

With their exquisitely speckled shells, delicate quail’s eggs make a stylish yet simple canapé for the Easter table. Peeling the tiny eggs to reveal the blue-green inner shell and pale yellow yolk is all part of the pleasure. Serve them shell-on piled on to a platter, alongside small bowls of celery salt, flavoured mayonnaise and dukkah, a Middle Eastern seasoning, for dipping. Three dozen will be enough for six people. To cook, bring a large pan of water to the boil, lower in the eggs and boil gently for 3min. Remove with a slotted spoon and plunge into a bowl of cold water to stop them cooking further. Find them at Waitrose and independent delis, butchers and fishmongers.