LES FERMES DE MARIE & LODGE PARK, MEGÈVE
If I were to list a few of my all-time favourite things in life, they would add up to a description of Les Fermes de Marie and its sister hotel, Lodge Park – two luxury hotels snuggled at the foot of the French Alps in the village of Megève. Think roaring fires, cosy candlelit lounges, plaid upholstery, dimly lit wooden chalets and 360º views of the mountains. Les Fermes de Marie is the more sceney and exclusive of the two – stay here if you want to ogle the alpine glitterati in their chic Chanel ski-wear and oversized Gucci shades. The resort is made up of authentic wooden farmhouses rescued from ruin high up in the mountains, and comprises 70 rooms, suites and chalets. Choose a classic cosy nest full of stylish mountain charm or go crazy and rent the exclusive private five-bedroom Chalet Chatel, which sleeps 10 and has five bathrooms and its own sauna. You can chill out in the atmospheric lounges, go hiking and biking in summer or head off to the slopes in winter, returning to relax in the Pure Altitude Spa. Here, there’s an indoor pool, Jacuzzi, fitness room, sauna and steam room, and the hotel has a kids’ club to entertain the little ones while you chill.
Lodge Park is the more relaxed hotel, with rates to match, but nevertheless, it still feels very luxurious. Smaller than Les Fermes de Marie, it has 49 rooms including 11 suites, all charming and unique with Ralph Lauren furnishings, sheepskin rugs and twinkly lights that make you feel like it’s Christmas every day. The sumptuous lounges on the ground floor are ideal for long, chilly nights nursing a whisky or two by the fire, or if you visit in summer, as we did, you can hang out by the outdoor pool. And don’t miss the legendary Sunday brunch, which includes a children’s magic show.
Although you can’t help but feel this place really comes into its own when covered in sparkling snow, there are some real plus points to visiting off-peak, especially if walking and biking are your thing. But the real positive to a summer stay is Les Fermes de Marie’s best-kept secret, L’alpage. This is an enchanting rustic dining experience that, due to its inaccessible position at the top of a mountain, is only open once a week during the summer months – or, more precisely, from mid-june to when the first snowflake falls, around the end of October. Hike up the mountain (or the hotel can take you by private Land Rover) and experience a feast above the clouds. The big wooden cabin has red check tablecloth-covered wooden tables groaning with charcuterie, cheeses and flagons of wine. Joints of meat roast tantalisingly over a huge roaring fire, and are served by staff dressed in traditional black berets. It is a unique, romantic experience and exclusive to hotel guests for €84 per person. Take your drink outside (but don’t forget your cashmere – despite the sunny weather, it’s still very cold at that altitude), and enjoy the glorious views across the mountaintops. Here, there’s nothing between you and the sky. OONAGH BRENNAN