THE WONDER STUFF?
Expert verdicts on the hot new launches
Like everything else in life, skincare ingredients, fads and trends can go viral at the speed of light, leaving millions of us scrambling to snap up the latest elixir of youth. We put five of the current beauty big-hitters under the virtual microscope, asking a panel of experts whether or not they live up to the hype.
GUA SHA MASSAGE STONES
These smooth, flat, oddly shaped pebbles (often made out of ‘healing’ gemstones) are said to de-puff, reshape and de-age the skin.
ABSOLUTELY
‘Done correctly and consistently – and I encourage people to watch videos – the Gua Sha technique will reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,’ says facialist Su-man. When used with long, outward strokes and plenty of face oil to prevent dragging, the pressure ‘releases tension, enhances circulation and nourishes the fascia – the sheets of connective tissue that enclose facial muscles’, she says. ‘It de-puffs and gives an instant glow but in the long run will boost collagen.’ And which ‘magic crystal’ is best? ‘That’s all nonsense. I favour ceramic stones myself, for their thicker, smoother texture.’
NOT SO SURE
‘Done right and with regularity, facial massage has its perks,’ says Debbie Thomas, clinical facialist, laser specialist and founder of London’s D Thomas Clinic. ‘A Gua Sha massage will relax skin and give it a nice glow for a few days, and the stone can help in that it makes massage easier for some people, which means they’ll do it more often. However, if you’re looking for long-term gain, there is no comparison with treatments such as lasers and professional peels, which change your skin by correcting imperfections and triggering cell renewal.’
THE RED VERDICT
Any regular facial massage that works on the underlying tissues, without damaging elastin fibres by tugging at the skin, will boost skin health over time. But don’t expect a dramatic transformation… and certainly not from expensive gemstones.
CBD
The calming and balancing properties of CBD (cannabidiol – a non-hallucinogenic molecule extracted from the hemp plant), when ingested, are proven. Now, countless beauty brands say you can expect similar results for your skin.
YES
‘Studies show that CBD has anti-inflammatory effects on the skin in the same way that, for example, oat extracts are soothing,’ says Kloris founder Kim Smith. ‘But CBD also has other benefits. It’s a powerful antioxidant, and because it works with the skin’s CB2 receptors, which are linked to the system that, among other things, regulates immune function, it encourages balance and optimal functioning of the skin and its barrier. This means it could be helpful with conditions like acne, where sebaceous glands need regulating.’ Smith admits that while clinical studies on topical CBD have been sparse due to the long prohibition of cannabis, ‘they are from well-respected sources (namely, the NCBI – the US National Center For Biotechnology Information), so they are very much valid. While we wait for more trials to take place, the real-life anecdotal evidence speaks for itself.’ KLORIS CBD SUPERBOOST FACE OIL, from £30 Calming and healing.
A HARD NO
‘Okay, topical CBD may display anti-inflammatory properties,’ says Shabir Daya, resident pharmacist at Victoria Health. ‘The cannabinoid receptors in the skin are part of the endocannabinoid system, which is responsible for pain sensation.
But I believe there are more potent and effective anti-inflammatories that also work with these receptors, such as turmeric and ginger. As these are often combined with CBD, it’s hard to establish how well CBD works on its own, and overall, the clinical evidence on most of the purported benefits of CBD is extremely limited. I have yet to see anything that proves antioxidant protection and sebum regulation.’
THE RED VERDICT
Anti-inflammatory properties are always welcome in our skincare but, as yet, the jury is out over whether we should invest in CBD over lauded (and often cheaper) anti-inflammatories such as curcumin (turmeric’s main active ingredient) and oat extracts. CLINIQUE FRESH PRESSED DAILY BOOSTER WITH PURE VITAMIN C 10%, £58 A potent skin defender. QMS MEDICOSMETICS EPIGEN POLLUTION DETOX DAY SERUM, £167 With next-generation antioxidant peptides. MURAD CITY SKIN AGE DEFENSE SPF50, £60 With iron oxides.
BLUE-LIGHT PROTECTION
Blue light, part of the sun’s spectrum, is known to damage skin. Our smartphones emit it, too, so should we slather on blue-light-protective skincare indoors?
USE IT
‘Blue light, or high energy visible light (HEVL), is the electromagnetic radiation from electronic screens – mobiles, laptops and televisions. Increased exposure may cause slacker skin, brown spots and other signs of ageing,’ says Rowan Hall-farrise, head of global education for QMS Medicosmetics. She advises wearing a sunscreen with mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) indoors, as ‘initial studies indicate this could offer protection’. She’s also a fan of seeking out antioxidant ingredients. ‘These mitigate the inflammation caused by environmental stressors – of which blue light is one.’
IT’S COMPLICATED
‘Marketing myth,’ says dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. ‘Based on current research, the small amount of HEVL emitted by our devices is unlikely to damage skin. But HEVL from daylight is a concern, causing cell damage and – disproportionally in darker skin tones – hyperpigmentation. So HEVL protection is actually more worthwhile outside. The problem is, the only thing that blocks HEVL are iron oxides. These mineral powders (different from mineral UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) have a pale tint, which can leave a cast on dark skins, so are used rarely. They can be found in a few sunscreens, some formulated to avoid this. Antioxidant protection also helps, in that it counters the free radical damage wreaked on your cells by blue light, UV and infrared. I recommend wearing a vitamin C serum (look for 10-15% L-ascorbic acid) under your sunscreen: it’s one of the best-studied antioxidants in skincare.’
‘VITAMIN C IS ONE OF THE BEST-STUDIED ANTIOXIDANTS IN SKINCARE’
THE RED VERDICT
Your smartphone might not be ageing you, but the HEVL in sunlight reconfirms the need for that most essential of anti-ageing potions: a high-spf, broad-spectrum sunscreen – with iron oxide if you can find it, and ideally worn with an antioxidant serum.
This plant extract is billed by some as ‘natural retinol’, capable of diminishing lines, wrinkles and pigmentation without irritation.
YES
‘Bakuchiol has been used in Ayurvedic medicine forever,’ says Balance Me co-founder Rebecca Hopkins. ‘It’s a plant-derived alternative to retinol: if included at the optimum level [said to be between 0.5% and 2%], it has been found to enhance collagen production, provide antioxidant protection, calm inflammation and reduce photo-damage. But it all happens without the peeling, dryness and sensitivity associated with retinol.’
YES, BUT...
‘A less aggressive retinol substitute?’ sighs ‘Cosmetics Cop’ Paula Begoun of Paula’s Choice. ‘The reference comes from one study that said bakuchiol showed “similar” results to retinol, and everyone picked up on it, despite the fact they work in different ways. Retinol stops the production of damaged cells, while bakuchiol is an antioxidant that calms and protects, allowing skin to function better. That said, bakuchiol is still a great addition to your skincare. It supports the function of other ingredients, including retinol. Also, because it’s a phyto-oestrogen, it’s helpful around the menopause to counter the drop in hydration and collagen production caused by falling oestrogen levels.’
THE RED VERDICT
‘IN ONE STUDY, BAKUCHIOL HAD “SIMILAR” RESULTS TO RETINOL’
Bakuchiol is your anti-ageing (and non-irritating) friend but, as with many ingredients, we like ours with complementary actives.
PROBIOTICS
Topical application of healthy bacteria is credited with rebalancing the skin’s protective acid mantle (or microbiome), restoring calm and optimal functioning.
UNLIKELY
‘I don’t see how this can work,’ says consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. ‘Most probiotic skincare does not contain “live” bacteria but “lysates”: essentially dead bacterial cell walls. There is little evidence this provides any benefit. Secondly, much of the bacteria used in skincare is based on what we know of the gut microbiome, but it’s a leap of faith to assume the bacteria that improve our gut could also benefit our skin. Thirdly, each skin microbiome is highly individual, consisting of many more than the one or two strains of bacteria routinely used in skincare, and comprising not only bacteria but yeast, fungus, mould and viruses. It’s unlikely we can replicate this with limited emerging science.’
ON THE OTHER HAND
‘The point of probiotic skincare is not to “repopulate” the microbiome with live bacteria,’ says pharmacist and Gallinée founder Marie Drago. ‘The dead bits of bacteria, which are recognised by skin receptors, show impressive soothing and moisturising properties. They are also a food source for resident “good” bacteria and proven to positively stimulate any skin microbiome.’
As for using just a few species (notably lactobacillae), organic chemist Trevor Steyn of Esse Skincare has this to say: ‘Our skin microbiomes derive from the mother’s vaginal microbiome during birth, which is massively dominant in lactobacillus species. These produce peptides that are toxic to harmful bacteria and viruses, and keep skin from flaring up. Some also produce hyaluronic acid, and lower skin’s ph, both of which are beneficial.’ Live probiotics (used in Esse) are the gold standard, says Steyn, but ‘dead fragments do trigger similar results’.
THE RED VERDICT
So far, we’ve found that some probiotic skincare has had a noticeably calming effect on our skin – and we’ll be keeping an open mind as the science improves.