CURVE APPEAL
The MD of Italian luxury plus-size label Marina Rinaldi talks body positivity and feeling sexy again
Marina Rinaldi burst on to the 1980s fashion scene at a time when designers had reduced style and elegance to a matter of size. ‘Women, sizes 16 to 28, were being ignored by the fashion industry and it was affecting their self-esteem,’ explains managing director, Lynne Webber. ‘You couldn’t find beautiful, elegant clothes for curvy women anywhere.’ The brand broke through the barrier of the skinny aesthetic, dedicating itself entirely to providing women with diverse body shapes with luxury clothes.
At the time of its launch, Marina Rinaldi’s focus was on fit and comfort. ‘The very first advertising campaigns didn’t even feature the clothes,’ says Webber. ‘Instead they showed a tape measure explicitly stating the size range the brand was dedicated to dressing.’ This game-changing collection featured classic investment pieces, including statement coats and suiting. ‘It was the 1980s,’ explains Webber. ‘It was all about power dressing and channelling Melanie Griffith in Working Girl. The clothes reflected the times and were designed to empower women, enabling them to affirm themselves in the professional field.’
Fast forward to 2021, and the label continues to respond to what modern women want and need from their wardrobes, with more fashion-focused ranges, including its Icons collection and a special
collaboration with British designer Antonio Berardi. ‘The collaboration represents a true meeting of minds,’ says Webber. ‘It is sexy yet chaste, strong but sensual; the perfect reflection of how confident women dress today.’ Expect iconic pieces reimagined in contemporary fabrics: A classic red dress with a drape back, tailored trousers in champagne linen and a crisp white shirt with dramatic ruffled sleeves. Forty years on, Marina Rinaldi is still trailblazing and reflecting the new inclusive mood. ‘Thanks to the digital revolution, women have a sense of their own empowerment,’ says Webber. ‘Social media has given them a platform and a voice, raising awareness around ‘taboo’ subjects of size and age. We’re starting to see younger women who are much prouder of their bodies, but many women just haven’t reached that stage yet.’ The label now designs clothes for all women from sizes 8 to 28, but the shift towards more trend-led collections has not been at the expense of the original brand ethos of body positivity, comfort and fit. ‘Some women still just don’t want to reveal their arms, so if we design a sleeveless top or dress, we always provide detachable sleeves, perfectly tailored, in a separate little bag, so they have the option,’ says Webber. What’s her favourite piece from the Spring/summer collection? ‘A black silk dress with lace trim,’ she says. ‘It’s sexy and figure-hugging. We are all longing to get out of our tracksuits and feel sexy, aren’t we?’