NISEKO, JAPAN
As far as bucket-list destinations go for any snow enthusiast, Japan is up there. But it’s hard to fathom as Niseko is only 300m above sea level and the average alpine resort clocks in at about 2,000m. Yet skiing here is all about the powder. In fact, it is globally recognised for its heavy snowfall and ‘Champagne powder’. Mount Yōtei dominates the Niseko skyline, and it’s thanks to this volcanic beauty affecting the weather patterns that snow occurs here at all. This is not the unpredictable powder of the Alps; this fresh snow is consistent and dry. During peak season (January to mid-february), you can expect 10 to 40cm top-ups daily; it’s called the White Season for a reason!
These duvets of snow are unfathomably deep, so you had better pack the low-light goggles and get properly suited and booted. The severity of the snowfall is eerie to the unfamiliar, yet soon becomes calming in its dominating whiteness. But beware: gliding on this powder, however blissful, exaggerates mistakes. So if you are ever going to improve, it’s here – especially as you can practise short, sharp turn techniques when skiing between the mystical shirakaba (silver birch) forests that parade beside the pistes.
Four resorts (Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu and Hanazono) interlink in Niseko to offer plenty of skiable terrain, including a lot of backcountry and off-piste access for adrenaline junkies. These are not long, thigh-burning runs, instead, they are fast, quick loops. Though, admittedly, a more modern lift system would make these loops faster (all in the Niseko plans).
The après-ski in Niseko is dignified and demure, and a must is relaxing in The Green Leaf hotel onsen, a traditional hot spa rich with minerals to help soothe an aching body. The dining options are rich and colourful, and as Hokkaido island is famed for its abundance of seafood, expect to see sea urchin, grilled tsubodai fish (amazing), king crab and snow crab aplenty, along with the more daring option of shirako, or cod sperm sacs, for the uninitiated. Our favourite is shabu-shabu, a social and cultural culinary highlight that gets its name from the swishing of thin slices of beef in the hotpot (nabe). For drinks, Bar Gyu+ (otherwise known as The Fridge) in Hirafu is a joy, as are its potent whisky and yuzu martinis.
Oh, and a trip to nearby Milk Kobo is imperative. It’s full of sweet-savoury cheese tarts, pastries, ice creams and large crispy choux buns with chilled loose custard.
While the aura of ancient Japan is not pervasive in Niseko (it feels a little purpose-built), YTL’S Kasara Niseko Village Townhouse has a refined luxury. Its exclusive dwellings deliver Japanese architectural charm with contemporary elegance.
Our advice? Tick off this bucket-list destination before it gets too popular. This truly is a resort where those seeking to carve on the corduroyed groomed pistes and those in search of autographing off-piste powder unite in winter sport bliss. PRICES AT KASARA NISEKO VILLAGE TOWNHOUSE START FROM £1,288 A NIGHT, BASED ON SIX PEOPLE SHARING. SLH.COM