QUINTA DA COMPORTA, PORTUGAL
There are big skies over Quinta Da Comporta. Vast swathes of blue that greet you each morning the moment you step out on to your little terrace, as I do the first day I arrive, cup of Portuguese coffee in hand. Set in the rice fields in the village of Carvalhal, a 10-minute drive from the coast, Quinta is a bohemian but insanely elegant sun-bleached enclave of residences connected by windy paths and shaded by spikey grasses. The majority of its 61 architect-designed suites and rooms run along a little pathway, which has a slightly retro, holiday-camp vibe – reimagined for a cooler customer – while a few standalone villas, complete with private pools, are dotted around the outskirts of the resort. All pathways lead to a huge, glass-fronted, reclaimedwood barn and restaurant, a solar-heated infinity pool lined with loungers and another double-height barn that houses the spa.
The aesthetic of this little oasis is just the right side of hip, with a big nod to its Portuguese heritage. Townhouses are built over two floors with small tiled kitchens, built-in sofas and private terraces. Whitewashed walls are adorned with decorative wicker trays, or the hotel’s signature oversize rattan crabs, while chunky bamboo beds and armchairs have throws, pillows and upholstery in local artisan fabrics, providing a shot of colour. Exposed beams and lots of natural materials give the space an airy, wholesome feel. This is laid-back, sandy-footed luxury. Walk-in showers with zellige tiles are big enough for two and stuffed with the hotel’s Oryza beauty products.
Wellness is at the heart of Quinta da Comporta, but it’s a relaxed interpretation of the word, in that you are here to feel rested, nourished and restored rather than beaten into good health. The impressive and architectural Oryza spa has an indoor/outdoor pool, steam, sauna and hammam, six treatment rooms and the aforementioned line of rice-based ‘rizotherapy’ skincare products, using tailor-made essential oils. Yoga and meditation are on the daily schedule and the resort hosts regular wellness retreats with a procession of guest teachers and specialists. Even the spa’s tiny shop is beautifully curated, selling stylish gymwear and beauty products.
Most of the action seems to centre around the main barn, which is home to a bar, lounge area and the main restaurant Mar D’arrozal. Using fresh produce from the resort’s expansive vegetable garden (which includes courgettes, peppers, chard, lemongrass and rosemary), plus local seafood, the array of ceviches and salads, grilled sea bass and tiger prawns are all standouts on the menu. Home-made spinach ravioli, pumpkin and chestnut soup and quinoa salad manage to be delicious yet also feel virtuous, while the roasted lamb (made to share), cauliflower gratin and hotel’s signature chocolate mousse, decanted from a giant bowl, have quite the opposite effect, but are possibly the most incredible things you’ll ever eat. Although the same could be said for breakfast, where home-made granola and avocado-topped toast are joined by a never-ending supply of tiny pastel de nata custard tarts.
I visited Quinta Da Comporta during the spring, when the temperature dips in the morning and evening but the middle of the day is golden and warm – the staff say the best time to come is May, before the summer visitors fill the beaches (although the coastline here is generous, so I can’t imagine it ever feels really cramped) and the mosquitoes become too enthusiastic. It’s the kind of place you’d like to return to every season, though, just to see how it changes. It’s really that good. CORIN RIPLEY DELUXE ROOMS AT QUINTA DA COMPORTA START FROM £220 A NIGHT. QUINTADACOMPORTA.COM