One-day ride: mid-wales
Handy for the West Midlands, great roads, amazing scenery – and fighter jets too! It’s a Mid-wales coastal trip…
IT’S FAIR TO say that most of Wales is great to ride around: North Wales into Anglesey, down in the south around the Black Mountains, and much (much) more. We’re checking out one of the lesscommon spots here though — from just inside the English border at Shrewsbury, to the sea, around the bottom of Snowdonia and back again. We take in glorious lakes — Vyrnwy and Tal-y-llyn — before getting close enough to pop into the wacky Welsh Disneyland that is Portmerion. There’s the Irish Sea, and within a few miles, vertiginous mountain passes. If you’re lucky, you’ll get buzzed by fast jets (or slow turboprops) working the ‘Mach Loop’ low-flying training zone. And you’ll be back in England and a stones’ throw from the M6 by teatime.
STAGE ONE Shrewsbury to Lake Vyrnwy 35 miles
The Shrewsbury ring road is not quite as bad as they can be, but you’ll put it behind you sharpish anyway. Take the A5 signed Llangollen and North Wales, then after about ten miles, turn off onto the B4396. Straight over the A483 when you get to it and onto the A495 at Llynclys. This road is where things start to liven up a bit — and you’ll start seeing brown tourist signs for Lake Vyrnwy. Turn off onto the B4393 and after some top bends, you’ll come upon the lake. There’s a picturesque bridge/dam thingy, and stunning views overall. Amazingly, it’s actually a reservoir for Liverpool, with supply pipes that run nearly 70 miles to Merseyside. You can tell from the dam construction that it dates back to the days when things were built properly, and to last… The Lake Vyrnwy hotel is pricey, but if you’re not staying, there’s a great outside seating area where you can have a drink and snack and take in the marvellous sights.
MORNING COFFEE Lake Vyrnwy Has to be the Lake Vyrnwy hotel for a nice pot of coffee and a view of the lake. STAGE TWO Lake Vyrnwy to Barmouth 97 miles After a lap of the lake, head out on the north western end, down by Eunant, and onto a single-track road that runs down through the valley, before hooking up with the A470 to Dolgellau. If you want a shorter run, head straight to Barmouth on the A496, and move onto Stage Three directly. But if you’re in the mood for a bigger ride, head north on the A470 to Porthmadog. The road is straight and fast in places, so watch for cameras and unmarked cars if you’re pressing on a bit. At Porthmadog, you can visit the incredibly surreal nearby Portmerion, have lunch, or just slip along the coast, past Harlech to Barmouth.
LUNCH Barmouth Murray’s Café Bar in Barmouth gets rave reviews and it’s not surprising — friendly staff and a range of tasty treats, from paninis to cake that’ll mean a couple more clicks of rear preload.
STAGE THREE Barmouth to Machynlleth 40 miles There’s a bit of messing about here between Barmouth and Tywyn – you have to head inland on the A496 to cross the river, almost up to Dolgellau. It’s worth it though, promise… Back out to the sea on the A493 and a lovely run along the coast south to Tywyn. Park up on the seafront, have chips or grab a nice pizza at the excellent Salt Marsh Kitchen café/bar in town. From Tywyn, you could easily continue south on the A493 coast road, round to Machynlleth. But we like the run back past Abergynolwyn on the B4405 to the Tal-y-llyn Lake, then round the A487 to Machynlleth from there.
AFTERNOON TEA Machynlleth Machynlleth is a bit of a cultural centre round here, and has loads of excellent food emporia. Try the Quarry Café or the Wynnstay hotel. STAGE FOUR Machynlleth to Shrewsbury 65 miles After Machynlleth, it starts to feel like the home straight. On the way out of town on the A489, take the unclassified road signed to Llanidloes, and get set for a twisty, rollercoaster run. Just 20 miles later, you’ll find yourself on the A470 out of Llanidloes, signed for Welshpool, then the A483/A485 and back into Shrewsbury.