What to look out for...
Owners and mechanics highlight the weak spots
1 ENGINE Mostly good news but watch out for top-end rattles on early models, which were prone to slappy camchains. There’s a BMW special part which stops the chain jumping a tooth on the sprocket (for example, on a very harsh over-run), which was optional on early bikes but standard from 2012 — worth having if not already fitted. Otherwise, mechanically they seem to be tough enough. Some owners reported erratic running and rough idling, blaming it on over-lean fuelling (which it has, especially low down). Before running off for a re-map though, try some different fuel – the K1300 has a very high compression ratio and despite the sophisticated anti-knock software, which should allow use of cheaper standard unleaded, most owners agree that they run better (and give better mpg) on super unleaded, and better still on posh branded premium fuels, such as Shell V-power.
2 GEARBOX Mostly okay once you’re on the road but the clunk down into first at a standstill can be eye-watering, and the change to second isn’t much better, especially when hot. Synthetic oil helps a lot apparently, otherwise just wait – they tend to loosen up a bit as the miles mount up. It’s not bad practice on quickshifter-equipped bikes to use the clutch for the first-to-second change as well. The clutch can be a bit rattly but it’s okay so long as it’s not given too much of a hard time – too many drag-strip starts will quickly cook the plates.
3 COOLING Not unknown for the radiator to get partially blocked, leading to overheating in traffic. That in turn can lead to premature problems with failed coils and other electrical components, so keep a keen eye on the temperature gauge. Incidentally, after any work on the cooling system you’re supposed to completely purge the whole system of air with a vacuum pump. It is possible to cobble together the necessary tools without spending a fortune (or to do it without using special tools, by careful bleeding) but most owners tend to leave it to experienced dealers.
4 ELECTRICS The Can-bus electrical system relies on a lot of small circuit boards and microswitches, all of them living in a harsh environment so failure’s not uncommon. Switchgear in particular is a common fault – either melting altogether or playing up in bad weather. Many components are coded to a particular bike’s chassis number, and to each other, which is good from an anti-theft point of view, bad if you’re trying to fix a problem on a budget as it
makes replacing individual components difficult. Clocks have been known to give trouble – they’re quite sought-after secondhand as a result.
The main wire from the battery to the starter is a bit weedy, which can cause problems with starting, especially when hot. There’s an uprated loom section (part number 12418532735) available for around £80 which helps a lot but it’s just some wire and a relay – you could always make one yourself for a few quid if you’re handy with the heat-shrink and solder. Upgrade the main-battery earth lead while you’re at it and give all the electrical connections a clean.
Speaking of batteries, the standard one is a bit marginal and an upgraded version (Odyssey is popular) is a worthwhile mod. It’s also worth noting that there are three different-spec alternators. The standard unit is 55A and is also a bit marginal if you’re running a lot of accessories. 1200 and 1300GT models with heated seats use a beefier 70A unit, which bolts straight into the S. Motorworks usually have them in stock from £95.
5 SUSPENSION Most K13s have the Electronic Suspension Adjustment option and owners love the ability to switch from sports to comfort settings at the touch of a button. You do need to occasionally clean and grease the shock mountings to avoid squeaks and it’s important when looking at a used bike to check that everything actually works as it should – go through all the settings at a standstill and check they make a difference when you’re on the move. BMW has so far been pretty good about sorting problems on a warranty or goodwill basis but as the bikes age and slip out of warranty, that’ll be less likely.
If the steering feels vague and the bike follows overbanding and imperfections, even on new tyres, it’s probably the ball joints in the front end which are at fault. They are very hard to get off, due to a high torque setting and so much threadlock that they sometimes strip the threads from the wishbones when you remove them – warming the whole assembly up first helps soften the threadlock but it’s best left to a specialist.
6 FINAL DRIVE Uprated from 1200 form, which was a little troublesome, and much more reliable. In fact you’re more likely to have trouble with the paint falling off than the insides failing. There were a few reports of collapsing rear hub bearings though, often signalled by an oil leak from the main seal. Don’t ignore this, as new bearings are pretty cheap, while allowing one to collapse completely may not only damage other components, it might potentially result in a catastrophic rear-wheel lock-up. With the bike on the centrestand or on a paddock stand, check for play by rocking the rear wheel side to side and up and down – there should be no play and it should spin smoothly.
7 RECALLS There was only one official VOSA recall for the 13S (for the UK) – for very early models. Bikes built up to the end of March 2009 had a potential problem with the killswitch, which could trip out and cut the engine at any time. An uprated switch was fitted and all affected bikes should have been upgraded by now. However there have been various other factory service bulletins and issues at dealer level, and the only way to find out if your bike’s covered by any of those is to plug it into a dealer’s diagnostic system and ask…
“Most owners agree they run better on super unleaded”