The French cliff-hugging classic
One of the French Alps’ hidden gems — in a brilliant setting
1 Spectacular scenery
If we’re honest, we all love riding in the mountains because it’s a beautiful environment. The Vercors Massif isn’t the highest part of the Alps but it’s one of the most stunning, with steep green slopes and sudden rocky cliffs creating dramatic views across the countryside. The D76 to the Col de la Machine hugs Combe Laval, a deep glacial valley with staggering views.
But let’s be clear about this: you need a good head for heights to ride this road — especially coming from the centre of the mountains and heading north, towards Saint-jeanen-royans. Many of the views are pretty much straight down. Col de la Machine isn’t an especially high pass (only 1011m) but it’s a balcony road, cut in the side of a cliff with nothing more than a low wall between the road and a yawning drop.
2 Fantastic riding
This isn’t just about views — across the valley or straight down it. Col de la Machine is a great road to ride, with a decent surface and a beautiful flow to the bends as they cut through arches in the rock and hug the drop. It’s 20 miles from St-jean to Vassieux-en-vercors, of which the balcony stretch is two miles in the middle of the ride.
3 The rest of the roads
Col de la Machine isn’t the only great road in this corner of the Rhône Alps – the Vercors is stuffed with brilliant riding. There are roads to suit all tastes, though there is a slight bias towards the narrower, steeper riding that suits adventure bikes. There are other balcony roads in the area as well — so if this one whet your appetite, there are plenty more to get your teeth into.
4 Accessibility
It’s pretty easy to get to the Vercors region. If you do 50/50 motorway and cross-country roads, it’s a pleasant day-and-a-half from Calais, or take more time for a relaxed nonmotorway ride seeing more of France on the way down. Alternatively, it’s just an afternoon’s ride away from the Bikeshuttle’s Geneva drop-off (www.bikeshuttle. co.uk) if you prefer.
5 Going further
If you want to start here and build up, it’s a perfect way to begin a tour of France’s great mountain roads. Col de la Machine is near Route Napoleon, the Gorges du Verdon and France’s Route des Grandes Alpes. But the Vercors is generally quieter than the Ecrin and the Mercantor regions to the east, with fewer cyclists and motorhomes clogging up the roads.