CORNWALL AND THE SOUTH WEST
Following the wild coast to the southern tip of Cornwall
THE A39 ATLANTIC Way is a nearly-200 mile-long A-road running from Bath to Falmouth. But the interesting bit for is the 140-mile stretch from Bridgwater in Somerset, across the coastline of Exmoor overlooking the Bristol Channel into Devon, then following the coast down through Barnstaple and Bideford, into Cornwall, through Wadebridge and meeting up with the A30 on the far side of Bodmin. Although the first few miles between Minehead and Bridgwater can still be busy with holiday-makers, once into the historic village of Porlock the traffic disappears and you’re left to your own devices with a bit of peace and quiet.
And after a cream tea for courage, you’ll need to compose yourself for riding up the super-steep gradient of Porlock Hill (a couple of dramatic hairpins make this a tricky road for novices). But once out from the tunnel of trees, you’re up on the roof of Exmoor, winding fantastically along the cliff edge through wild ponies and heather. It’s a brilliant view across the Bristol Channel into South Wales.
Next, the A39 drops steeply down Countisbury Hill into Lynmouth; another quaint village also known as ‘Little Switzerland’ because it looks a bit Swiss. Then it’s up and away between high hedgerows, jinking alongside rivers and climbing up through woods and fields, into Barnstaple. Through the town, then pick up the Atlantic Highway again for a long, leisurely roll towards the south-western tip of the country, between fields of long corn and with the sea ever-present to starboard. Every right turn is an excuse to dive off the A39 and explore – Westward Ho!, Clovelly and its donkeys, Bude, the site of the Cornish Grand Prix at Davidstow, Tintagel Castle... you could build an entire biking holiday around the Atlantic Highway.
And finally, the A39 comes to a momentary stop at the A30 south of St Columb Major, where most will head for St Ives or Land’s End — but a few miles later the A39 re-emerges and heads further south to Falmouth — and more exploring.