LAP OF LUXURY LUXEMBOURG

A relaxed loop of Europe’s overlooked jewel

Why ride in Luxembourg?

You’d imagine a small country in the heart of Europe, surrounded on all sides by Belgium, France and Germany, would mostly be a bureaucratic urban sprawl with little in the way of rural beauty, let alone great riding. But you’d be wrong. Luxembourg is indeed small — it’s around 60 miles from top to bottom, 40 miles side-to-side, and you could fit two Luxembourgs into Norfolk alone. But although it’s usually bypassed for more obvious destinations by biking Brits, visiting Luxembourg on two wheels is worth it in its own right.

It’s green, clean, efficient, sophisticated yet quaint, culturally and culinarily diverse, with multi-layered, picturesque landscapes transitioning between gentle, rolling farmland of the western side of the country to densely forested rivers and valleys in the east. Every town and village is an excuse for a stop, a coffee and a wander; you can lose hours each time simply enjoying the area’s food, architecture, history and lifestyle. It’s a very relaxed, laid-back vibe. In the south, the city of Luxembourg is split by geography into a business sector on one side, with the urbane and cosmopolitan historic half the other side of a high ridge.

What are the roads like?

Road quality is well-maintained and better than the UK, and it’s bike-friendly; roadside barriers are designed to be bike-safe, with a bottom rail to stop riders sliding beneath. There’s lots of space to ride, too; traffic volume is low because, despite its size, Luxembourg has one of the lowest population densities in Europe (fewer residents than Dorset). And, while you won’t find an epic, all-day tarmac tyre-twister – Luxembourg is more like the Peak District than the Highlands – instead you’ll get classic noodling rides beneath great canopies of broad-leafed trees, sweeping along the banks of rivers or through natural rock formations, from one castle to the next stately home. And, like the rest of Europe, motorcycling tourists are actively welcomed.

What’s the weather like?

Luxembourg has its own micro-climate and weather changes rapidly — in summer it can be baking sun one minute, full-on thunderstorm the next. But overall it’s a bit warmer than the UK, but a bit wetter too.

What are the best routes?

As it’s not massive, two to three days will get you a comfortable loop around the entire country but that would be rushing it a bit. The best scenery, riding and

tourism is in the north, where you enter the country on the N84. The area around Wiltz and the Lac de la Haute-sûre is lovely, packed with little villages for exploring and then move across to Clervaux, then down the German border and the Our valley, picking up the Moselle. Over in the east, the area around Septfontaines and the valley of the seven castles is worth a mooch.

What does it cost?

Petrol can be pricey (fill up in Belgium or Germany) but you’re hardly banging out the miles – and a cheap tourist passport gives free access to around 70 attractions. Regional tourist offices supply bike-friendly itineraries.

What’s the worst thing about riding in Luxembourg?

Luxembourg is pretty rather than mind-blowing – it’s not the Alps. But it is a fabulous, alternative and relaxing biking break, especially if you’re the enquiring, curious, open-minded type who likes a bit of culture too.