WAR OF THE ROSES
1 Pendle Hill
Clitheroe Road running over the western side of Pendle Hill between Sabden and Clitheroe, is brilliant. As it rises cheekily across the moors, winding past the Wellsprings Spanish and Mexican restaurant, it’s worth reflecting on the fate of the Pendle witches, eight women and two men who were executed in 1612. The region around Pendle Hill was noted for its “theft, violence and sexual laxity…”
Forest of Bowland
The B6478 runs out of Clitheroe through farmland and villages, but where it branches right at Slaidburn, we carry straight on heading north on The Skaithe (yes, not a B-road) leading into Lythe Fell Road, across the moors towards Ingleton (and crossing into Yorkshire). Fairly straight barring the odd jink (and mind the gravel at Cross of Geet bridge) the moor is bare and windswept. For wilderness fans, it’s a good place to drink in the big skies.
3 Ribblehead viaduct
The B6255 runs from Ingleton to Hawes. The Ribblehead viaduct is the middle point, the road framed by the vast arches of the bridge carrying the Settle-to-carlisle railway. It’s worth the short walk around the base of the arches to admire the structure.
4 B6270
The B6270 is a road of two halves — the first section, from Nateby, is classic Dales. The second part, as the road drops alongside the river Swale, is slower and more leafy. at the Punchbowl Inn in Feetham, take a diversion left up a tiny, steep road that pops you out onto the moors, then down to a picturesque ford between a hollow in the hills. Turn left when you reach Raw Bank by Langthwaite and eventually you’ll come to the Tan Hill Inn, England’s highest pub.
5 B6265
More classic Dales riding, between drystone walls and through rolling farm hillsides. The road runs from Pately Bridge to the other side of Grassington and passes Stump Cross caverns where you can get a coffee and a cake.
6 Buttertubs
The final treat on the loop is the Buttertubs Pass, on the road from Hawes up to Thwaite. A crazy, hectic ride, at times it can feel as if the road is about to twist upside down and inside out, like a giant Möbius strip.