What to look for…

When buying heated grips



Hardness of the grip material itself has an effect on comfort. Original equipment grips are typically fairly soft to help absorb vibration and this is also desirable on an aftermarke­t heated grip


Heated grips can be wired directly to the battery but are better spliced into a switched feed so that power is cut when the ignition is turned off. Otherwise you risk a flat battery unless they have an intelligen­t controller. Be careful with cable runs so that they aren’t pulled or chafed when you turn the bars. Cable ties are your friends here


Because they have to contain electrical elements, heated grips can be a bit thicker than standard ones. Provided the difference isn’t too great, you will likely soon adjust to this change. However, if you have small hands or stubby fingers, you may want a slimmer option, particular­ly if your levers have no span adjustment


Most modern motorcycle­s have 22mm handlebars (7/8in in old money) although some, such as certain Harleys and customs, use one-inch bars. Of course, the rightside grip needs a larger inside diameter (typically 25mm) to go over the throttle tube


Given that switchgear is positively located to a bike’s bars and that throttle tubes can come in different lengths, it’s worth checking your grips of choice will fit your machine. Some can be cut down a little to suit but obviously you can’t trim down into the heating elements


Ideally you want a controller that is easy to operate with a gloved hand. So much the better if it is within easy reach so you can keep your hands on the controls too. Some grips have the controller integral while others have it mounted separately — do you have space for it?

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