No need for snow on a Swiss break
A visit to Switzerland during autumn is a real feast for the senses, as STELLA CAIRNS discovers
ALTHOUGH famed the world over as a top-class winter sports destination, the Swiss region of Graubünden is well worth a visit outside the ski season.
This large stunning mainly German-speaking canton is a magnet for walkers, cyclists and outdoorsy types with awe-inspiring mountains, stunning valleys, evergreen forests and crystal blue rivers.
And those looking for a little less adventure and a lot more luxury will be in heaven exploring the historic towns or being pampered in some of the globe’s most opulent spas.
And 2014 is a big year in Graubünden as it celebrates the centenary of the Swiss National Park.
Set among unparalleled alpine scenery, nature lovers will delight in looking out for the bearded vulture, golden eagle, capricorn, chamois, stag and marmots among the glorious forests and fauna.
We stayed in Rocksresort in the hillside retreat of Laax, which offers swish accommodation in a breathtaking setting.
It takes about two hours to get there from Zurich airport via the everefficient Swiss railways.
A timber-clad hotel – just like the ones you see in the films – hugs the mountainside, while ultra-modern slate covered blocks house swanky suites.
Our apartment boasted a high-end kitchen, living room, with satellite telly, two bedrooms and a separate shower room.
The master bedroom had lodge-style wooden wall panelling and a huge bed, while the guest room had twin singles and bunk beds. Best of all, the walk-in wet room transformed into a soothing private steam room at the touch of a button – perfect for resting those weary muscles after a long day’s walking or mountain biking.
We also went on an almost 10-mile culinary trail, a walk at your own pace through the scenic mountains, stopping off every so often for a tasty bite. Beginning at a brewery in the pretty town of Flims, the all-day wander begins with a glass of the local wheat beer and either a fresh cheese salad or a hearty Swiss white sausage and soft pretzel as a starter (tip: have a very light breakfast so you’re ready for your first course at around midday).
The circular ‘Woods & Water’ route takes six to seven hours and winds through an alpine forest, around the turquoise Lake Cauma where we marvelled at miles of rolling hills and soaked up the wonderfully peaceful atmosphere, broken only by the sound of birds twittering and the crunch of leaves beneath our feet.
We sauntered on along the well-signed route before our next stop about 90 minutes later in the pretty hilltop Restaurant Conn, where delicious handmade ravioli is served for our main course on decking in the heart of glorious countryside.
A further amble along the mountainside provides stunning views of the Graubünden panorama, where cable cars climb high in the distance and we actually hear cattle bells ring in the next valley.
A reward for walking another few hours and making it to the end is an optional swim in glistening Lake Cresta. In fact, if heaven truly is a place on Earth, this unspoiled spot has got to be a contender.
Even if you don’t fancy dipping a toe in, take a moment to sit by the side and enjoy its unspoiled splendour.
A short wander away and a huge slab of traditional apple pie and cream (you deserve it) awaits on the balcony of the quaint Gasthaus Crestase hotel. Bliss. Well worth the £32 price of the whole experience each.
For another unforgettable memory, wrap up and catch a ski lift to Cassons, 2,675m above the ground.
The gentle ride, which takes around 20 minutes, is exhilarating, with legs dangling freely as you travel above wooden lodges and waterfalls, sparkling like Toy Town below.
Switch to a cable car, or gondola, half way up and try to spot Ibex goats hiding in crevices in the rock face below.
At the top, take the time to breathe in the crisp air and marvel at the huge snow-capped mountains that seem to rise forever.
On the descent, tackle the ‘Trutg dil Flem’ walk to get a closer look at the beautiful blue waterfall you spied from above.
After all that exercise, what better way to unwind than in one of the luxurious spas?
We visited the five-star superior Flims Waldhaus Mountain Resort, a perfect place to recharge the batteries after a day’s exertion on the hilltops.
Don your soft white robe and slippers and wander through the grand marble halls until you reach the slate-walled steam rooms, revitalising saunas and peaceful pools.
After a snooze on the loungers or a stop to watch the world go by outside, it was time to get the bus – a handy 10-minute ride – back to Rocksresort for dinner.
If history is your thing, just a 40-minute bus ride away from Laxx is the canton’s scenic capital Chur. The town can trace its origins back to the Bronze Age and its museums and art galleries detail its rich past.
We stayed overnight in the Hotel Chur, a traditional hotel offering comfort, value and satisfying food conveniently located in the heart of the bustling town.
With so much to sample during the summer in Switzerland who needs skiing?...