Rochdale Observer - - TRAVEL -

VERY so of­ten, you land at a des­ti­na­tion that steals your heart and has you rhap­so­dis­ing about it for months after­wards.

Board­ing my morn­ing flight to Es­to­nia’s cap­i­tal city, sur­rounded by stag par­ties shoot­ing minia­ture spir­its and drink­ing the air­port dry of lager, I wasn’t sure whether Tallinn and I would get along.

But there are two types of Tallinn: the one that ap­peals to lads on tour look­ing for a dirt-cheap week­end, and the one that’s qui­etly assert­ing it­self as one of Europe’s most ex­cit­ing gas­tro­nom­i­cal cities.

While bach­e­lors tend to roam the bars around the Town Hall Square and the cruise ship crowd tour the city’s UNSECO-pro­tected Old Town, it’s the out­skirts of the me­dieval de­fen­sive walls that are be­com­ing trendy.

The hip­sters have Kala­maja – a for­mer work­ing class sub­urb that’s been trans­formed with craft beer bars, fika cafés and art gal­leries.

It’s here you’ll find Tel­liskivi Cre­ative City, an old in­dus­trial area that’s be­come a bea­con for Tallinn’s new vibe. De­cay­ing ware­houses have been coated in street art and con­verted into stu­dios, de­sign shops and gig venues, at­tract­ing a young crowd of artists and tech en­trepreneurs.

Scratch the sur­face and you’ll find more of the same cre­ative en­ergy in pock­ets of the cen­tre.

Smart Finns have been hop­ping the boat over from Helsinki to gorge on Es­to­nian food for years, but a smat­ter­ing of new open­ings are breath­ing new life into Tallinn, with ac­claimed chefs like Ger­man Miche­lin­starred Matthias Di­ether set­ting up shop on Es­to­nian turf, along­side a younger gen­er­a­tion of up-and-com­ing cooks.

Its cross-cul­tural ge­o­graph­i­cal lo­ca­tion makes it a melt­ing pot of foodie in­flu­ences – most no­tably Baltic, Nordic, and Rus­sian – so plates are of­ten as di­verse as they are de­li­cious, serv­ing up ev­ery­thing from meat-filled dumplings and fer­mented for­aged veg­eta­bles, to fresh and zesty pick­led fish.

Mix­ing light with heavy, raw with com­fort, it’s a new type of cook­ing style that puts an Es­to­nian twist on the ‘new Nordic’.

Thanks to min­i­mal bomb­ing in World War II, Tallinn also has one of the best pre­served Hanseatic town cen­tres in the world. Un­like the grit of Ber­lin or the seedy un­der­belly of Am­s­ter­dam, its streets are a liv­ing fairy tale; all pas­tel build­ings on cob­bled lanes, me­dieval tur­rets and nooks to steal away in.

Since Lonely Planet named Tallinn its best value des­ti­na­tion of 2018, more peo­ple have been flock­ing here, so prices are slowly go­ing up, but you still get a lot of value for each euro you spend. The cost of a pint is around £3.50, while a three-course meal for two will set you back around £35.

It’s also a snip of the price of pop­u­lar Copen­hagen, yet still ir­re­sistibly undis­cov­ered. Ev­ery­one’s fought tooth and nail for a ta­ble at Noma, but ORE? Less so. Whether you’re in it for the travel ku­dos or not, it’s a place to re­lax, eat well and drink your­self merry.

IF you’re stay­ing in the Old Town, ORE of­fers fu­sion Baltic cui­sine. We de­voured an ex­cel­lent six-course tast­ing menu with wine

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