A dramsight better
Islay serves up a lot more than just great whisky, as MHAIRI CLARKE discovers
AFTER weeks of grafting, my partner and I decided to book a three-day escape to take a break from our nine-to-five heads, four children and the day-to-day ups and downs of living in a global pandemic.
We chose The Machrie hotel in Islay, a place that is special to me for many reasons – childhood holidays, family connections spanning centuries, the softness of the air and the spirit-lifting colours of the landscapes and sky.
On arrival, I couldn’t have felt further away from it all, and yet I had a sense of being “home” as I entered the 18th-century converted farmhouse with its slate tiles and terracotta walls adorned with colourful works of art. The giant sofas by the fireplace were calling my name too.
There was also a quirky reminder of the times we’re living in – a large ornamental sheep in wellies wearing a protective mask.
Following a refurbishment, much of the hotel has been retained with a new extension at the back and wings.
The decor follows a “McScandi” style with its mix of Scottish colours and textures led by the subdued minimalism of Scandinavian design.
The interior allows you to connect to the light outdoors as you walk upstairs to the 18 Restaurant and Bar, with its wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows and vaulted ceiling.
Watching the light from the south west change every so often from my table was a mesmerising show in itself. The light and weather change often here in the Hebrides, which is strangely reassuring. Just when you think the rain and wind will never end, the clouds lift to reveal blue skies and sunshine.
There is thoughtful decor throughout, from the wooden block stag’s head above the fireplace in the lounge to the Hermes and Gucciinspired scarves with golf designs. Lighting is cleverly used to create cosy corners and the gentle illumination brings out the amber glow of Islay’s world-famous whiskies nestling on shelves.
The interiors are a carefully woven together tribute to the island and give a real sense of place, with the mix of heathery pinks, russet hues, dove greys, rich blackberry and uplifting burst of yellow.
Every part of the hotel has a different personality but it all blends perfectly, creating a warming sense of calm cosiness and a much-needed sanctuary.
Our bedroom was simple luxury
– a bed the size of a small white Egyptian cotton planet, a carpet that you sink your feet into, thoughtfully designed storage and a spa-like bathroom with luxury toiletries, giant towels and two big fluffy robes and slippers.
The food is exceptional and very reasonably priced. A two-course lunch will set you back about £22 and you’ll pay less than that for a delicious smoked salmon sandwich washed down with a crisp glass of Chablis.
Executive chef Darren Velvick has built the menu around the philosophy of doing simple things really well, which makes for an unpretentious, comfortable and enjoyable serving of low-key culinary excellence.
For one of the most tranquil places I have ever visited,
Islay feels completely alive, thanks to the natural elements.
The historic site of Finlaggan, the Centre of the Lordship of the Isles, offers an enthralling, mystical experience (finlaggan.org, £4).
Travel around the island to visit the distilleries, craft shops and art galleries and on even the dullest of days, the clouds will part and you’ll enjoy some bright moments.
Or do what we did after a day outdoors – a giant bubble bath with a glass of wine, Bryan Burnett on BBC Radio Scotland, cosy dressing gowns, slippers on and room service of one of the best plates of fish and chips I’ve ever had.
The Machrie is Scottish hospitality at its best – lovely people working hard to make every minute of your stay easy, relaxed and safe, giving you a experience that feels both homely and luxurious.
Our trip was the most perfect, memorable escape at a time when we needed it the most. We connected with all the things that are important, enjoyed sensory treats for three days and nights and left feeling restored and evened out with a fresh take on life. Ready for whatever the next few months have in store.