The Guardian - Saturday Magazine
‘Sweeping views across the winding River Elbe, waterfalls, ravines and crags’
It’s best to try to pronounce Sächsische Schweiz after a couple of strong schnapps. Or just cheat and use the less tongue-tying English translation, “Saxon Switzerland”. However you manage to say it, it’s certainly worth taking some time to see it.
A 25-minute train ride from Saxony’s magnificent state capital, Dresden, and two hours from the its biggest city, Leipzig, this picturesque national park rises impressively from the east bank of the River Elbe and is one of the region’s most popular recreational areas. Yet Saxon Switzerland remains fairly under the radar for most non-German visitors.
The park is the German section of the broader Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which straddle the Czech border (the larger Czech side is called Bohemian Switzerland), and its generous 340-square-miles are characterised by undulating landscapes, craggy sandstone formations, vertiginous valleys, waterfalls and sweeping ravines.
Discovered as a tourism destination a couple of centuries ago, it captured the imaginations of Romantic artists such as Caspar David Friedrich, who painted his classic Wanderer above the Sea of Fog here. The park was also one of the birthplaces of rock climbing, a pursuit that continues on the area’s thousand-plus free-standing rock faces and climbing peaks. More recently, the park’s scenery has found cinematic fame in films such as Cloud Atlas, The Reader, and The Grand Budapest Hotel.
But even though it drew 1.6 million overnight stays in 2023, it never feels as crowded as, say, the Bavarian Alps further south – with the exception of the park’s obvious tourist magnet, the Bastei Bridge, an attractive outcrop of sandstone offering sweeping, Instagrammable views across the winding Elbe and surrounding mountains.
Just a short way beyond the bridge, however, is quiet, almost deserted forest and 750 miles of crisscrossing hiking trails and climbing routes. Even the most famous multistage trail, the Malerweg (Painters’ Way), which runs for more than 70 miles – divided into eight official day-hikes that vary from easy to demanding – gets immediately quieter after the initial Bastei section. Deeper into the park, there may be the chance to spot peregrine falcons and black storks, kingfishers and Eurasian pygmy owls, lynx and deer, chamois and beavers.
There are restaurants and accommodation options peppered throughout the park, as well as public transport options for many hikes and even luggage transportation services. For cyclists, there are about 30 miles of mountain bike trails, as well as the more leisurely Elbe Cycle Route, which can be picked up at Dresden and remains reassuringly flat and delightfully curvaceous all the way to the mountains and the Czech border.
The pretty spa town of Bad Schandau, at the foot of the Saxon Switzerland mountains, is one of the park’s main gateways and easily accessible by train from Dresden.
A few miles further, reachable by car, bus or train, is the tiny village of Schmilka, which has its own Bio Village – a complex of sustainably built hotels and eco-restaurants with equally excellent access to the park.
Where to stay: Hotel Helvetia (doubles from €229 half-board) has riverside views, a sauna complex, an organic restaurant, daily yoga classes and guided hikes. It’s on the Elbe Cycle Route and close to the Malerweg too.