Let’s get cracking again!
The rise of pre-shelled nuts threatens a joyous Xmas tradition. So . . .
ADIGITAl ‘e- card’ isn’t a patch on a paper Christmas greeting. A Skype c al l with Santa i s no replacement for sitting on his knee. And a packet of pre-shelled walnuts is no substitute for the joy of spraying bits of shell shrapnel across the living room as you smash them up.
Nevertheless, nutcracking is on the verge of becoming a lost art. It seems we just can’t be bothered to break i nto the Christmas nuts ourselves.
for example, while sales of pre- shelled nuts and fruit-and-nut mixtures at Asda are up by 60 per cent compared with a year ago, sales of whole nuts in shells are down.
Iron lever nutcrackers date back to the 13th century. The first use of the term in the english language was in 1481, when the Petty Customs Account recorded a dozen nutcrackers being traded.
The mothballing of the nut-cracker would not just be bad news for those who enjoy taking their frustration out on some macadamias as another family argument breaks out.
And our festive decor would be poorer — an overflowing basket of nuts in their shells is a visual delight.
The change depresses Marlena Spieler, writer of more than 70 cookbooks, who says: ‘I like the experience of nutcracking more than the eating. even the flavour is different. They taste so fresh, unlike the way they taste already shelled.
‘And it’s good for kids to see where nuts actually come from — and that they don’t grow in plastic packets.’
furthermore, a recent study found that snackers who eat nuts in shells consume fewer calories than those who opt for the pre-shelled variety. The simple trick works because the sight of the piles of discarded shells acts as a visual reminder of how much you have eaten and discourages you from over-indulging.
So, for those keen to cling onto a British tradition, which are the nutcrackers worth shelling out for?
If you want one in time for Christmas, make sure you order today (the last day for Royal Mail to deliver first class packages in time), or if you wait until next week, ensure your order is being delivered by courier.
SQUIRREL SHOWSTOPPER
Alessi Scoiattolo nutcracker £69, Alessi.com Alessi is loved by its customers for its sleek Italian design — but don’t expect it to come cheap. This £69 cracker, made of polished stainless steel, would be a beautiful addition to any mantelpiece as much as a functional kitchen utensil.
You simply flick the tail forward for the little squirrel to tap open the nut with its paws, and the wooden base has holes of two sizes t o accommodate smaller and larger nuts.
The gizmo is solid and does crack the nuts, but it lacks the control that a hand-held nutcracker would give you and some nuts take several tries to break. In a nutshell: Style over substance, but such style . . .
CONCENTRIC CRACKER
Bar Craft nutcracker £11.99, Lakeland. co.uk This workhorse of a nutcracker offers t he kind of no-nonsense utility you’ve probably come to expect from lakeland. Concentric rings inside the head accommodate any size or shape of nut — just drop it in and squeeze.
The zinc alloy ratchet feels ultra-sturdy and the sprung design means you don’t completely obliterate the nut (while the silicone grips go easy on your hands). And you can use it to unscrew plastic screw-top bottles, or bring it out on New Year’s eve to help ease off the champagne corks.
ROBO-SHELLER
Suck Robot nutcracker
£14, JohnLewis.co.uk This brightly coloured little helper — made of beech wood — makes light work of cracking your snacks.
All you need to do is pop the nut i nto the robot’s stomach and turn t he yellow ‘wind-up’ key for it to penetrate the shell of the smallest hazelnut or the toughest walnut.
The only robot that doesn’t even require a couple of AA batteries. And with its retro paint job, it will look lovely sitting on your kitchen shelf.
ANTLERED APPARATUS
Reindeer nutcracker
£20, Furnish.co.uk The most festive of the l ot, this 15.5cm-tall reindeer device is made of aluminium and is available in red or white.
Santa’s favourite animals use their tails to crack your nuts, but equally make a great table decoration when not in use.
CRACKING CAST-IRON
Cast-iron nutcracker
£30, roullierwhite.com even the toughest nut won’t get past this castiron contraption.
It may look like a torture device, but its makers promise that it ‘allows a precise application of pressure to break the nut shell without damaging the nut inside’. Made of solid cast-iron, with a steel spindle, it is inspired by the classic design by Robert Welch, the acclaimed 20th century english designer and silversmith.
NUTS ABOUT MAGGIE
Margaret Thatcher nutcracker From 99p, eBay.co.uk This novelty nutcracker may or may not be on the Christmas lists of die-hard fans of Mrs T, depending on how offbeat their sense of humour.
Ironically, this version of the Iron lady is actually made of plastic and as such feels fairly flimsy when dealing with hard nuts, and leaves you worrying that a leg might shatter at any moment. Best used for softeral monds, o r enjoyed merely as a Christmas talking point.
ONE WITH A SPECIAL TWIST
Royal VKB Dutch nutcracker £14.95, CulinaCookshop.co.uk A nifty device by Dutch brand Royal VKB, it is the only nutcracker that can guarantee you won’t have any fragments of shell being fired off in all directions.
The design concentrates your twisting power to crack the nut sealed inside a glass jar. Its lid can be used on both sides — the shallow side is for walnuts, while the tall one can reach d o wn to crush hazelnuts.