AN INSPECTOR CALLS

His mission: To test hotel hospitality to the limit

THE pub with rooms phenomena continues apace in London — and this is a classic of the genre, executed with style and panache by a couple of twentysomething lads who met at Leeds University.

This i s their third Artist Residence ( Brighton and Penzance are up and running) in what used to be a traditional boozer in Pimlico, a short walk from Victoria Station.

If the bones of a building are important, here they’re as good as they get.

Built by Thomas Cubitt in 1852, the grand, stuccoed house is on four floors — five if you count the basement, where there’s a dimly lit bar and sitting room for hotel guests.

I feel good the moment I walk in. There’s no fuss at reception and, unlike The Orange nearby, there’s a separate entrance for those staying the night, so you don’t have to shout your name at the bar or get handed a packet of crisps rather than your room key.

I’ve booked a Small Plus room, but am upgraded to The Loft because not many of the ten rooms are occupied.

Everything about The Loft is charming: the wooden floors and panelled walls, bare brick, white paint. The bedhead is a gate and the lights (all on dimmers) are industrial, with Sixties anglepoise lamps on the bedside tables.

The cupboard must have been reclaimed from an office. In fact, reclamation seems to be a theme.

The countryside comes to town is another. The bathroom is part of the bedroom, with a separate shower and enclosed loo. Two sturdy sash windows look terrific and, hallelujah, you can open them.

The restaurant is called 64 Degrees. The idea is that the chefs are part of the eating experience, especially if you sit at the bar, as I do. Small plates of this and that are the order of the day under three sections: veg, fish and meat, with four options for each.

Haddock gyoza, pear and fennel has me leaning over the bar and asking one of the chefs for an explanation.

There are no side dishes of any description — and no carbs as far as I can see. Dr Atkins would feel at home.

There’s a bubbly, unpretentious atmosphere, though I would expect proper napkins rather than paper jobbies at these prices.

Frankly, that’s about the only criticism I can muster.

Artist Residence 52 Cambridge Street London SW1V 4QQ Tel: 020 7931 8946 artistresidencelondon.co.uk Doubles from £150, room only