Curry source... how we’ve been addicted to spices since 1798

THE first curry restaurant opened in Scotland almost 70 years ago, sparking a trend which now sees one on almost every high street.

But it appears our love of Indian food is not a new phenomenon – in fact, it stretches back more than 200 years.

The popularity of curry has seen it labelled ‘Scotland’s other national dish’, however, new evidence shows that it was being eaten as far back as the 1790s.

The earliest known advert for curry powder in Scotland was placed by an Edinburgh grocer and confectioner on July 5, 1798.

John Caird, who imported fruit and spices from across the world, informed customers through the Edinburgh Evening Courant he ‘ has just received a parcel of REAL INDIA CURRY POWDER in the original package’. But priced at two shillings and six pence (12.5p) a canister, it would only have been eaten by the rich.

The advert features in an exhibition opening today at the National Library of Scotland, Lifting the lid: 400 years of food and drink in Scotland. Exhibition curator Olive Geddes said: ‘This was a considerable sum in the late 18th century and was way beyond the means of ordinary workers. It would have been more than an ordinary person’s weekly wage.’

She added: ‘ Early curry recipes show they would have enjoyed spicy stews based on fish, meat or vegetables. There are recipes for chicken curries just like today.

‘One we know of was called Curry Topperfield, which involved boiling a chicken in water with salt, adding garlic, onion and a spoonful of curry powder and apples, pickles and cucumbers to go with it, stewed gently.’

Part of Scotland’s Year of Food and Drink, the exhibition tells the story of the country’s changing relationship with food and drink and includes what is thought to be Scotland’s first ever recipe book – John Reid’s The Scots Gard’ner – which was published in 1683. It also reveals while foods such as Cullen skink, cranachan and clootie dumpling survive, others, like powsowdie (a sheep’s head broth), crappit heids (haddock heads and livers) and cruddy butter (a type of cheese), have all but disappeared.

Dr Geddes added: ‘We hope that, with this exhibition, people can learn more about food in Scotland and about how tastes have changed and developed.’

Lifting the Lid: 400 years of food and drink in Scotland runs until November 8 at the National Library of Scotland, George IV Bridge, Edinburgh. Entry is free.