GLORIES OF SECRET BRITAIN
20 unspoilt seaside gems you MUST visit
ALL this week, in a series of superb pull-outs for you to collect, the Mail is revealing 100 Glories of Secret Britain: the wonderful sights across the country too few of us know about or visit. Use them to make the most of your summer and enjoy some of Britain’s lesser-known gems — without the crowds. Today, 20 unsung glories of our coasts . . .
BOTANY BAY
BROADSTAIRS, KENT CT10 3LG REMEMBER that bt ad promoting the Olympics and Paralympics with Jessica ennis-Hill running along the beach?
That was filmed in beautiful botany bay, once a renowned location for 18th century smugglers to bring in contraband.
between broadstairs and margate, this beach (above) with its huge chalk stacks and towering cliffs, is an atmospheric and impressive backdrop to a day at the sea- side. It’s also a blue Flag beach, with clean (if chilly) sea swimming, making it ideal for families. When the tide is out, it’s also a good spot for fossil hunting and rock pool dipping. At the top of the cliff, you can have a pot of tea and homemade cake in botany bay Tea Gardens. WHERE TO EAT: Walk to broadstairs (roughly 20 minutes) and try a meal at Osteria Posillipo, a traditional and buzzy Italian (01843 601133, posillipo.co.uk). Further afield is the michelin- starred pub, The Sportsman at Seasalter, ( 01227 273370, thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk) WHERE TO STAY: The elegant Reading Rooms in margate where a comfortable double will cost from £ 150 b& b ( 01843 225166, thereadingroomsmargate.co.uk).
WHAT’S NEARBY? Lots of wonderful coastal walks — try Dumpton Gap beach, with its parade of jaunty beach huts, to Ramsgate (when the tide is out).
LITTLEHAMPTON
WEST SUSSEX, BN17 5GB THIS attractive harbour town boasts the UK’s longest beach — east beach — as well as, perhaps, one of its most unusual looking cafes on the same stretch.
The steel structure designed by Thomas Heatherwick who created the Olympic Cauldron, was inspired by a piece of driftwood and its sinuous shape emulates waves, sand and shells.
For a relaxed day on the sand, take the ferry over to West beach, a nature reserve and Area of Special Scientific Interest, with its sand flats, shingle, dunes and varied birdlife. Noisier fun can be had at Harbour Park, a fun fair next to Littlehampton marina. WHERE TO EAT: On Littlehampton east beach at east beach Cafe, as described above, which offers fresh seafood and expansive sea views, ( 01903 731903, eastbeachcafe.co.uk). WHERE TO STAY: Pretty Seabeach House, which is on the South Downs and within easy reach of Chichester and Arundel, (01243 537944, bandbatseabeachhouse.co.uk) WHAT’S NEARBY? The market town Arundel, with its restored 12th century castle overlooking the river Arun, (01903 882173, arundelcastle.org)
SHEPHERD’S CHINE
ISLE OF WIGHT, PO38 WeST of popular Ventnor, visited by Dickens and known for its alluring microclimate, are more secluded beaches. Pass Chale to Shepherd’s Chine and Whale’s Chine — both of which are only accessible on foot from military Road — and you’ll find sand backed by daunting cliffs.
both beaches are good spots for fossil hunting in the cliffs and, at low tide, you might even spot dinosaur footprints.
even on a squally day, this coastal stretch will enthral. Take a picnic and enjoy the sunset. For those who want to make waves, brook beach, further west, is good for kite and wind-surfing.
At low tide, a fossilised forest appears at Hanover Point, beyond which you can see more evidence of the time when dinosaurs
roamed. Scrabble about at the cliffs and you might even find three-toed casts belonging to the Iguanodon.
WHERE TO EAT: About half a mile’s walk along the cliffs from Ventnor is Steephill Cove beach shack, offering a Thai twist on classic beach food, New Forest i ce- creams and homemade cakes.
(the beachshack-ventnor.co.uk)
WHERE TO STAY: The campsite at Chine Farm is convenient for the beach — it overlooks Shepherd’s Chine. Pitch fee, £7. ( 01983 740901, chine-farm.co.uk)
WHAT’S NEARBY? The Isle of Wight Coastal path is 67 miles long and the stretch from Tennyson Down, west of Shepherd’s Chine, to the Needles is one of the best loved routes. The poet Alfred Tennyson moved to Farringford House near Freshwater in 1854 and strode out from here.
PLEMONT BEACH
JERSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS, JE3 2BD THIS beautiful sandy cove on Jersey’s most northern tip is known for its rock pools, caves (all of which appear at low tide) and protective cliffs. Access is via steep stairs, which keeps it crowd-free.
Surfing and swimming are both popular s ports here, depending on t he sea conditions.
WHERE TO EAT: Plemont Beach cafe on the cliff above the beach which serves
Jersey crab, cream teas and Jersey’s Liberation Ale.
WHERE TO STAY: The Atlantic in St Brelade has a Michelin-starred restaurant and is the only Atlantic-facing hotel on Jersey with views over St Ouen’s Bay and the wildlife conservation area. Rooms from £100 per night, including breakfast. (01534 744101, theatlantichotel.com)
WHAT’S NEARBY? The eerie War Tunnels and the underground hospital in St Lawrence tell the chilling story of the island’s occupation during World War II. (01534 860808, Jerseywartunnels.com)
PORTHCURNICK BEACH
ROSELAND PENINSULAR, CORNWALL, TR2 5EW UNDER a mile north of the attractive little fishing village, Portscatho, with its whitewashed cottages, harbour and 13th century church, you’ll find southeastfacing Porthcurnick Beach.
It’s not just an appealing stretch of sand, i t’s the site of a pre- historic submerged forest.
You might even uncover fossilised roots, stumps and acorns. Archaeologists have also found iron-age pottery, dating from around 2nd century BC. At low tide, rock pools appear and small adjacent beaches are accessible nearby.
WHERE TO EAT: Hidden Hut, a shed on Porthcurnick beach, is open from March to October for locally-sourced snacks and lunch (it closes at 5pm). Hidden Hut hosts feast nights throughout the summer where you bring your own cutlery and wine and enjoy the bohemian atmosphere. ( hiddenhut.co.uk) Tickets for feast nights at seetickets.com.
WHERE TO STAY: Channel New England charm at the Driftwood Hotel, Rosevine, Portscatho, which has a Michelin-starred restaurant. Rooms from £205 a night b&b. (01872 580644, driftwoodhotel.co.uk)
WHAT’S NEARBY? The Eden Project and the Lost Gardens of Heligan, plus the South West Coast Path for some seriously scenic walks.
PORTHCHAPEL BEACH
CORNWALL: TR19 6JS SKIP well known and often crowded Porthcurno beach and head to sheltered Porthchapel next door.
This sandy stretch is under a mile from the small village of Porthgwarra and buttressed by granite cliffs. It’s popular among locals and rarely full, as access is via a slim cliff path and you have to scramble over rocks to reach the sand. Visitors might be lucky enough to see seals, which swim offshore.
WHERE TO EAT: At the Minack Theatre Cafe above Porthcurno beach, which offers Cornish cream t eas, l i ght snacks and far- reaching sea views. ( minack.com)
WHERE TO STAY: Unique Home Stays offers luxury self-catering cottages along this stretch of coast, like Seasalt near Sennen Cove, around a ten minute drive from Porthchapel Beach. Seasalt costs from £695 for a three-night weekend stay. (01637 881183, uniquehomestays.com).
WHAT’S NEARBY? The staggering Minack Theatre conceived and built in the 1930s by Rowena Cade — who lived in Minack House — and her gardener in the cliffs above Porthcurno. The first performance was Shakespeare’s The Tempest. A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum is on this summer with music and lyrics by Stephen Sondheim.
PENTLE BAY
TRESCO, SCILLY ISLES, TR24 WHITE sand, clear turquoise water, a gently scooping shoreline — Pentle Bay on well-manicured Tresco, 30 miles south west of Land’s End, has all the romance of a Caribbean beach but without the accompanying jetlag.
The island’s warm climate makes for
Crashing waves. A mighty fortress. Why don’t more come to marvel at this epic landscape?
pleasurable sea-swimming and this is the perfect place to spend the day loafing on the sand. It’s also a Site of Special Scientific Interest because of the unusual combination of dunes and heathland. WHERE TO EAT: Ruin Beach cafe, so called round a because it was built a ruined smuggler’s cottage, has a wood-fired pizza oven delivering roasts, fish and bread as well as pizzas. (01720 424 849, tresco.co.uk)
WHERE TO STAY: Sea Garden Cottages overlooking Old Grimsby beach offer sea views and there’s an indoor swimming pool for guests. Larger cottages which sleep six to ten are available from £1,615 per week. (01720 422 849,
tresco.co.uk)
WHAT’S NEARBY? The 19th century Abbey Gardens, visited by Prince Charles and Princess Diana when she was pregnant with Prince William, with its collection of ships’ figureheads and over 20,000 exotic plants. The wilder Isle of Bryher, is an inter-island boat ride away.
MERSEA ISLAND
COLCHESTER, ESSEX, CO58
DIMINUTIVE mersea Island (it’s only eight miles square), Britain’s most easterly inhabited island, between the Colne and Blackwater rivers is accessible from the mainland via The Strood causeway. It is sometimes cut off by high tides.
Come here for crabbing, estuary views, mudflats, shell-filled beaches like mersea Stone, delicious fresh oysters and old world charm.
There are several boatyards here too and sailing is a common pastime — there is a regatta, which has been running since 1838, i n West mersea in August. Stay on the island and after the
day trippers have left, you will feel you have it to yourself.
WHERE TO EAT: The Company Shed, West mersea, which is renowned for its sublime seafood and locally- sourced alcohol — they serve mersea Island beer and wine. (01206 382 700, thecompanyshed.co)
WHERE TO STAY: monkey Beach Cottage, a 300-year-old grade II listed house and one of the oldest on the island, has sea views and lovely monkey Beach is on the doorstep. Prices start from £600 f or a week’s stay. ( 07973 741 148,
monkeybeachcottage.co.uk)
WHAT’S NEARBY? West of mersea Island is Blackwater estuary national nature Reserve, home to thousands of wetland and migratory birds. Look out for the red-beaked oyster-catchers.
FRESHWATER WEST
PEMBROKESHIRE, SA71 5AH
YOu might recognise Fresh Water West Beach from Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows — i t was the backdrop to Dobby’s intricate shell cottage, which was built on the beach.
It is no longer here but the beach is still a scene stealer. This is an excellent surf spot (some say the best in Wales) and the venue f or the Welsh national Surf Championships.
There are dangerous rip tides, so these are not waves for beginners.
The beach is backed by dunes and has rock pools plus acres of sand for castle building. The northern end offers quieter bays and there’s a rocky reef at the other end.
WHERE TO EAT: Cafe mor offers fresh lobster and crab rolls as well as burgers from its jaunty trailer in the car park at Freshwater West. Open until October. ( www.beachfood.co.uk)
WHERE TO STAY: Historic monkton Old Hall, which overlooks Pembroke Castle and has an edwardian open fireplace. A three night stay in September costs from £1,038 and it sleeps seven. (01628 825925,
landmarktrust.org.uk)
WHAT’S NEARBY? Pembroke castle, built on an imposing spot on the river Cleddau. It was the birthplace of Henry vII.
BLAKENEY
NORFOLK, NR25 7NW
THe pretty village of Blakeney with its flint houses and pleasure craft presides over swathes of soothing marshland, mudflats, creeks and channels all of which make for wonderful walks whatever the weather.
even in the height of summer you can forge out and not see another soul. Blakeney harbour is livelier and the place to go crabbing. Blakeney Point (accessed from Cley Beach) is home to a colony of seals, an old lifeboat house and offers sweeping views back to the village.
WHERE TO EAT: The newly refurbished Hoste Arms in swanky Burnham market, which has an airy Garden Room