Scottish Daily Mail

GARDENING:

- NIGEL COLBORN

WINTER is coming. Nights are now longer than days, temperatur­es are falling and the party conference season is in full swing. If any of that causes feelings of despair, cheer yourself up by ripping out exhausted summer displays and plant up for spring.

It’s great therapy and you’ll feel much better after your purge. But before you discard those old tender plants, pause for a moment and reflect on their value. Most summer plants are fully recyclable and don’t have to be thrown away.

Tender annuals such as tagetes, cosmos or zinnias will die and that’s that. But they seed freely and most come true to the parents.

Collect seeds or seedpods now — if you haven’t already — and dry them for a few days in a warm room. Store dry seed in labelled paper envelopes for sowing next year. Most tender plants, even those we consider disposable, are perennials.

They’re easy to propagate and with minimal heat will come safely through winter.

For large numbers, you’ll need a greenhouse or conservato­ry. But you’d be amazed at how many plants you can bring through with a few well-lit windowsill­s and a cold frame.

LOADING THE ARK

MY TWO greenhouse­s are i ndispensab­le. Out go tired tomatoes. In go pots of mature plants. As well as supplying cuttings for 2016, many will become large s peci mens, revitalise­d and brought on for key positions outside next year.

Large tender shrubs such as Abutilons, t i bouchinas or oleanders can be trundled into a conservato­ry or roomy greenhouse. They look attractive all winter but you may need to prune them. You can also leave marginally tender plants outdoors and hope for a mild winter. Survival is more likely if you protect their roots with thick bulky mulches such as bark chips.

Don’t cut dead stems back until spring — they can help to save the plant. And if the plants are potted, move their containers i nto a huddle s omewhere sheltered and protect their pots.

You can cover stems of large plants outdoors with bubble wrap or with straw held in place by waterproof plastic sheeting. It doesn’t look pretty but could save a plant’s life. Whenever you bring mature plants inside, remove diseased leaves and check for pests, particular­ly aphids and scale.

A systemic insecticid­e such as Provado will give l ong- term protection but be sure to follow the manufactur­er’s instructio­ns.

Most tender perennials root easily and quickly from cuttings. But for reliable results you need an electrical­ly heated propagator. These cost from under £20 for a windowsill model to £500 for a semi-profession­al prop bench. Try twowests.co.uk for supplies.

FREEBIE PLANTS

I START gathering t ender cuttings as soon as I’ve cleaned my propagator and washed down the greenhouse in September.

Select small shoots — few need be longer than 6cm or 7cm — remove lower leaves and insert them into the rooting medium.

Freshness hastens rooting, so set all your cuttings within minutes of gathering and before they can wilt. I root mine in a mix of equal parts Perlite (an expanded volcanic mineral) and general purpose potting compost.

Root more of each variety than you need but be ready to discard surpluses l ater when you’re running out of space.

Today’s cuttings will be large plants by April but cannot be moved outside until mid-May. And growth rates accelerate hugely during early spring. Pot up and label your cuttings as soon as they’ve rooted.

Your greenhouse needs heat to stay f rost- f ree but you can minimise costs by insulating with bubble wrap. Attach it to the glazing bars on the inside.

Most tender summer plants will survive temperatur­es close to freezing but for safety, set your thermostat to a minimum 5c.

And have horticultu­ral fleece handy to lay over your more vulnerable l i ttle treasures if there’s an excessivel­y cold spell.

 ??  ?? Keep them toasty: A gently heated greenhouse is the best place to winter tender plants
Keep them toasty: A gently heated greenhouse is the best place to winter tender plants
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