THE SCILLY SEASON
Look no further than these idyllic islands for a dreamy break, says Ben Taylor
Such is the reputation of this fabled cluster of islands — ten in total, beloved of writers and former Prime Minister harold Wilson — that I’m anxious to see them from the air. But as my flight dips in from Land’s End, a heavy cloak of cloud denies a glimpse. Then, with a traveller’s sense of serendipity, the shroud dissolves less than a minute before landing, and I am offered a snapshot of what awaits me — mini-masterpieces.
Locals say the Isles of Scilly most definitely are not part of cornwall. They’re right. Time seems to move at its own pace and, for families, these islands are perfect.
ST MARY’S
ThE seal is looking at me with what seems to be a grin. We lock eyes for a second before he dives below the surface. I follow him as he glides above submerged rocks, sleek in the gloom.
It’s strangely touching but, then, the Isles of Scilly have a tendency to leave a lump in the throat.
Stay at the charming and quietly efficient Star castle hotel. Its proprietor, Robert Francis, also owns the nearby holy Vale vineyard and has a sideline in catching lobsters — so his menu and wine list are definitely locally sourced.
If you order the lobster the night before, it will be caught the next morning — and arrive on your plate that evening grilled, with butter and boiled potatoes. You will not find a fresher dish.
Star castle proves to be a fine choice — not just a hotel, but a 16th-century fortress, pinned in place at the west tip of St Mary’s. Strolling around its still-sturdy walls is an ideal way to begin the day.
Beyond, the island — the largest in the Scillies — it has much to offer: pretty Old Town on the south coast; the holy Vale vineyard, a green oasis in the centre, offering tastings and lunch; the ‘capital’ hugh Town, almost on the Star castle’s doorstep, its busy little quay buzzing with craft.
And St Mary’s is perfect for exploring the other islands. STAY: Double rooms B&B at the Star castle hotel (01720 422317, star-castle.co.uk) from £150 per night.
ST AGNES
ThE most southerly of the five populated islands comes with a close companion — the little sliver of Gugh, to which it is linked by a low sandbar.
St Agnes provides everything you could want from a seaside location — soft sands (not least on the idyllic Periglis Beach), rocky coves, winding paths, decadent ice creams at Troytown Farm, and good food and local beers at The Turk’s head pub. STAY: Troytown Farm (01720 422 360; troytown.co.uk) has three self-catering holiday cottages — including The croft, which sleeps up to five people, from £525 per week.
TRESCO
ThE second largest island is home to the plant sanctuary of Abbey Garden — a collection of sub-tropical plants set in the remains of 12thcentury buildings. Such is the microclimate that the gardens are described as a ‘perennial Kew’, hosting species from dozens of countries, many of which are in flower in winter.
I also like the shipwreck memorabilia at the Valhalla Museum.
Tresco is a good place to hire a bike. Its flat paths are ideal and you can pick from a terrific selection of beaches. STAY: The New Inn (01720 423 006; tresco.co.uk) in New Grimsby has 16 rooms — from £60 per night, with breakfast.
BRYHER
Majestic: St Nicholas’s Church in Dolphin Town, Tresco. Left, visitors play in the sand. Right, horse-riding on St Mary’s BRYhER is Tresco’s immediate neighbour — and if there is a better British island walk than the one which takes you from church Quay, around the foot of Samson hill and into Rushy Bay, then I will take some persuading. The island has several hills, all of which allow the determined hiker to enjoy exhilarating views. Fewer than 100 souls live here.
On low-tide days you can walk to Tresco. Fans of author Michael Morpurgo can buy fudge from Veronica Farm, which features in his book Why The Whales came. STAY: Veronica Farm (01720 423 951; veronicafarmholidays.co.uk) has three self-catering cottages — including Fernside, which sleeps four, from £250 a week.
ST MARTIN’S
cOME here for the seals. A colony of greys lives and swims off the Eastern Isles, a five-minute boat ride from St Martin’s (Scilly Seal Snorkelling, 01720 422 848; scillysealsnorkelling.com).
This two-mile island’s Great Bay is its most obvious attraction, with sensationally clear water.
Elsewhere, bracing strolls are on offer along the east coast — where you can find the deliciously named Bread And cheese cove. STAY: Boutique retreat Karma St Martin’s (0333 323 2353; karma group.com) has doubles from £235 a night, room only. TRAVEL FACTS SKYBUS flies to St Mary’s from Land’s End, Newquay and Exeter from £140 return, or take the Scillonian Ferry from Penzance for £90 return. Details at islesofscilly
travel.co.uk, 01736 334 220. More information: visitislesofscilly.com.