BEST FOR A CROWD

one of the (very) many lovely things about champagne is that it comes in so many styles. This is a Blanc de noirs, meaning it’s made only from black champagne grapes — in this case 100 per cent pinot noir — so it’s more ripe and round than lean and serene. And it’s the juiciness that makes it more a lip-smacker than a cheek-sucker, and a great crowd pleaser.

Made exclusively for waitrose by Alexandre Bonnet, a brilliant producer down in the south of the Champagne region.

Waitrose Blanc de Noirs Brut NV, £17.99 until December 3 (normally £23.99)