BRING A BAGNUM TO YOUR BBQ! PHIL GOES LOW-CARBON
That’s the new wine trend for magnums that come in a giant bag, tube or box. HELEN McGINN got glugging
WheN off-licences were deemed an essential business during lockdown, relieved wine lovers raised their glasses. And kept raising them, according to a recent Wine Intelligence report, which shows stay-at-home Brits have been drinking more wine, more often. Now thanks to Boris Johnson’s decision to allow BBQs this week, we’re stocking up for social drinking, too. But loading your shopping bag or supermarket trolley with bottles of booze isn’t the best look.
Luckily, shelves are filling with new, larger packaging formats to suit the new way we shop — less often, and preferably in bulk. from wines in boxes to tipples in a tube, and from magnums to bagnums (that’s extra large wine pouches, to give them their less catchy, functional name), they’re suddenly everywhere.
Boxes, tubes and pouches all boast far better green credentials than traditional 75cl bottles, which are hugely energy intensive to make and transport.
Then there’s the fact that once opened, bag-in-box wines last for weeks, rather than days for a bottle. even celebrities are getting in on the act with TV presenter Phillip Schofield launching his first wines last month — only available boxed. But when it comes to what’s inside, is bigger really better? or does ‘Chateau Cardboard’ still belong firmly on the bottom shelf? femail’s wine expert helen McGinn puts the latest super-sized launches to the test…
REAL PEACHY POUCHFUL
Pheasant Gully semillon Chardonnay 2019, 1.5l, £13, M&s
ThIS peachy wine pouch brings together the Semillon and Chardonnay grapes, a classic Australian white blend. Interestingly, the grapes have been harvested at night to retain as much fresh fruit character as possible, in this case lots of orange and lemon flavours with a pithy twist. It’s simple, straightforward and refreshingly good value.
According to M&S the packaging is 90 per cent lighter than the equivalent wine in glass bottles, but as it stands, the packaging is not recyclable. Let’s hope they’re working on that.
SCORE 3/5
PROVENCAL PICNIC PACK
Coteaux Varois en Provence Rosé 1.5l, £16, M&s froM the socalled heart of Provence (Coteaux Varois is an appellation right in the middle), this region benefits from a bit of altitude so wines are often more fresh and bright. Made from a cocktail of local grapes including Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre, this pouch contains two bottles’ worth.
It is eminently picnic-friendly with a helpful carrying handle, and taste-wise delivers on all fronts. Crisp and clean with soft red fruits and a touch of white peach, it’s perfectly pale — and great value. SCORE 4/5
MAKE YOURS A DOUBLE
Vinnaturo #2 150cl, £29.50, winebuyers.com
ThIS pouch — with a handy carrying handle — also contains the equivalent to two bottles, the same as a magnum. The packaging is sleek and minimal, as is the winemaking philosophy behind the brand. It’s a so-called minimal (or low) intervention wine, meaning the winemaker leaves it to do its thing as naturally as possible.
The wines are fermented and aged in large concrete tanks, with nothing added other than a little dose of sulphur when the wine is put into pouches. This Italian white is made from a blend of Trebbiano and Sauvignon Blanc and although nice enough, lacks the kind of freshness and zip I’d expect, especially given there’s Sauvignon Blanc in it. SCORE 2/5
Phillip schofield nero di Troia 2.25l, £24.99, Waitrose
ThIS is one of a pair of wines from innovative bag-inbox producer When In rome, released under celebrity wine-lover Philip Schofield’s name. This is no cheap and cheerful plonk, even if it’s three bottles in one.
When In rome specialises in ‘craft wines made by small, independent producers and sold in convenient, eco-friendly bag-inboxes’. The company claims the packaging uses ten times less carbon than a glass bottle that’s thrown away.
Now for the taste. Interestingly, they’ve gone for fairly obscure grape varieties, but they’ve picked well. This red is made from the Nero di Troia grape and when you stick your nose in the glass, you’re met with a glorious wall of sweet cherry fruit aromas. on the palate there’s more of a sweet and sour character to it along with a sprinkle of spice.
Perfectly pitched, this works a treat with pizza or pasta.
SCORE 5/5
WHY NOT TAKE THE TUBE?
Maree d’ione Fiano, 2.25l, £25.99, Waitrose
ACCordING to Waitrose this is the uK’s first wine in a tube and ‘an important step forward’ in sustainability. It looks more like a giant tin of paint to me, with the equivalent of three bottles of wine held in a plastic bag, much like you’d find in a bag-in-box.
It’s an organic vegan fiano from Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot and it’s really very lovely — all ripe and round with soft pear flavours and a touch of nectarine too. The packaging looks great and is 100 per cent recyclable. There’s a red version, too and, like the white, it’s well worth a try.
BRITS AT THE DOOR
Three Choirs Bacchus 2019, 2.25l, £35.20, bibwine.co.uk
The BIB Wine Company was set up by four siblings and a Master of Wine a few years ago with a simple mission to put properly good wines in bag-in-boxes. It says its wines use six times less carbon than glass bottles — and there’s a wine club, so if you fancy your booze delivered with 10 per cent off, you can pick how much you want and how often, then put your feet up.
There’s a big range of refreshingly different grape varieties and countries to choose from. This is their latest launch, an english Bacchus from Gloucestershire’s Three Choirs vineyard.
It’s a real delight with subtle floral aromas and super-limey flavours. If you like Sauvignon Blanc, you’re going to love this. during lockdown they’re also donating 55p from every box to the royal Voluntary Service. SCORE 5/5
FRESH, PERKY RED
Vinnaturo #8 150cl, £29.50, winebuyers.com
PROPERLY fresh and perky, this is from france and made from the little-known Cabernet franc grape. With more of a slight herbal edge to it than the more familiar Cabernet Sauvignon, this is also organic and vegan-friendly. It ticks all the boxes as far as a fussfree juicy red goes, although it’s a little on the expensive side compared with the competition.
SCORE 3/5
BARGAIN ON TAP
Co-op Fairtrade Red Blend 2018 3ltr, £19.50, Co-op
If you’re looking for a barbecuefriendly bag-inbox red to have on tap this summer, check out this juicy little fruit-bomb from Argentina’s most innovative co-operative producer. Made from a blend of Malbec and Bonarda, boosted by the addition of the spicy Shiraz grape, it’s got bags (literally) of oomph and flavour.
And as far as value for money goes, this one wins hands down with the box holding the equivalent of 24 glasses. And a percentage of sales go to local community projects run by the co-operative, including the construction of a new medical centre. SCORE 4/5
P.S. SUMMER’S HOTTEST MAGNUM
AIX Rosé 2018 Coteaux d’Aix en Provence 1.5l, £26.99, Majestic
There’S nothing new about magnums, but if you want to supersize your rosé bottle for those summer evenings in the garden, this is one seriously good-looking way to do it. AIX is the biggest selling rosé brand in magnums and it’s made from a classic blend of Provence grapes including Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and a dash of Carignan. Pale in colour, it’s got plenty of citrus freshness along with perky redcurrant flavours. My only gripe is it’s slightly pricey for what you get. SCORE 3/5
n Helen’s book The Knackered Mother’s Wine Guide is out now (£8.99, Bluebird)