AN INSPECTOR CALLS

He pays his way... and tells it like it is

THE New Inn has been around since the 16th century — but at least the sign is new, following a revamp by two bright young things who are trying to grow a brand called Baz & Fred.

That’s Harry ‘Baz’ Henriques and Fred Hicks. Still in their 20s, they are schoolfriends from the Cotswolds and the idea, according to the general manager, is to ‘bring a bit of London’ to the countryside. Which sounds horrible — but when pressed further, he says the plan is to make it ‘fun’. In its previous incarnation it was more formal, more ‘fine dining’, more expensive.

And it is fun. Stylish, too, after receiving the full Farrow & Ball treatment, plus lots of new wood in the bar area, giving off a beach shack vibe. There is even a little booth with neon lights spelling out Baz & Fred.

In fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if they soon ditch the name New Inn and just call it Baz & Fred.

It helps that all this is housed in an exquisite, honey-coloured building in Coln St Aldwyns, one of the most beautiful honeycoloured villages in a part of Gloucestershire that has not yet fallen victim to its elegance.

There are 14 rooms. Ours is charming, with a few black-andwhite, framed photographs of the Cotswolds, traditional Burlington basin and taps, and a comfortable, well-dressed bed.

We are here only three days after it reopened and the excitement is palpable. Locals are flooding in, plus friends of Baz and (sorry, &) Fred.

The menu is mainly posh burgers, but we start with a

superb burrata and tomato salad and a fabulous bruschetta with anchovies draped over it. The burgers are top-notch and the atmosphere so fresh and convivial that we forgive some of the lapses in concentration.

We order mustard, nothing arrives; nor do two dips for our chips — and I have to ask three times for my glass of red.

Worse, my burger turns up as I’m halfway through my starter.

‘Roll with it,’ says my wife, anxious to avoid a scene. So I do roll with it, happily.

Then I hear that Baz & Fred aren’t around this evening to sort out some of the rough edges, which, so soon after launching, seems a little careless.