AN INSPECTOR CALLS
He pays his way... and tells it like it is
BRAVE? Bold? I nsane? Whichever it is, there can’t be many worse times to launch a new hotel than when hardly anyone is around to stay in it.
But that hasn’t stopped a number of top-end openings in London, including The Mayfair Townhouse, a super-swanky former Hilton just off Piccadilly and near Green Park.
A member of the expanding Iconic Luxury Hotels group — which includes Cliveden and Chewton Glen — this is a massive undertaking, comprising no fewer than 15 Georgian townhouses that have been completely transformed.
There are 172 rooms and, although there is no restaurant as such, the glamorous Dandy cocktail bar offers a terrific all-day menu.
The design and feel pays tribute to Half Moon Street’s louche past, where dilettantes and bachelors such as Oscar Wilde misbehaved.
I notice a peacock near reception. Turns out that it’s made out of 25,000 Swarovski crystals, and in the basement where breakfast is served, there’s a semi-private den with tangerine walls and dozens of pictures featuring foxes. Some of the art has QR barcodes in case you want to find more about them.
I ask a member of staff — all of whom are unfailingly upbeat — what’s the difference between a townhouse and a hotel. ‘A townhouse is less formal and more friendly,’ he says.
The flamboyance of downstairs doesn’t quite extend upstairs. My plush room is dark, with black leather headboard and brown chairs. It’s a touch masculine and could do with a splash of colour.
It could also benefit from simpler lighting. What’s wrong with a dimmer switch? And it’s frustrating not to be able to open the windows, especially in such an old and impressive building.
But we l ove the white marble bathroom, with his-and-hers sinks, walk-in shower and free-standing tub.
Down in the bar, it’s masks off and tastebuds full on. I order three small plates: artichoke croquettes, padron peppers, truffle and parmesan arancini. They are all spectacular, as is the roast cod main course. With food this good, it will be tempting to open a proper restaurant downstairs.
The Mayfair Townhouse is a fine new addition to the capital’s hotel scene. It deserves to thrive, not least for the audacious timing of its opening.
The Mayfair Townhouse 27-41 Half Moon Street London W1J 7BG Tel: 020 8138 3400 themayfairtownhouse.com Doubles from £252 B&B