Scottish Daily Mail

FOR PEAT’S SAKE!

Time to dabble with compost alternativ­es this summer

- NIGEL COLBORN

NEW cars are an average 6.3 per cent less fuel efficient than official claims with the worst more than 25 per cent adrift, according to What Car?

The magazine used a rolling road to simulate real world driving styles and conditions, and compared the performanc­e of 96 petrol, diesel and hybrid cars to published global benchmark light vehicle test results.

Worst underachie­vers were BMW’s 420d M Sport Pro, 26.4 per cent less frugal than its official test figure, followed by Suzuki Swace 1.8 Hybrid SZT (21.6 per cent), Ford Fiesta 1.0 155 petrol ST-Line X (19.9 per cent), Renault Clio 1.6 petrol hybrid 140 Iconic E-Tech (19.6 per cent), and Audi A3 Saloon 1.5 35 TFSI 150 petrol S Line (16 per cent).

However, the Ford Ranger 2.0 diesel Thunder was one of the thriftiest that beat official figures (by 18.9 per cent).

WE MUST learn how to garden without peat. Climate change and previous environmen­tal damage mean that what remains of the world’s peat reserves is thought better left untouched. Undisturbe­d peatlands hold and store massive quantities of fossil carbon. To protect this land, sales of peat-based composts will be banned in the UK from 2024.

So if, like many, you use peatbased potting compost in your garden, you will have to begin searching for an alternativ­e.

For more than a century, sphagnum peat moss has played a crucial role in horticultu­re. Peat mops up and holds surplus water, allowing it to drain away.

In a pot, that helps to maintain the vital balance of moisture and air within the constituen­ts of the potting composts.

Peat-free composts are much less versatile. However well formulated, they lack that unique ‘blotting paper’ quality.

When waterlogge­d, they can damage roots. If allowed to dry out, they’re quick to cause drought stress and can be difficult to re-moisten.

So peat-free gardening may seem daunting at first. But once you understand how these composts behave, your results can be just as good.

PLENTY OF CHOICE

ALTERNATIV­E composts have been used successful­ly for decades. The late TV gardener Geoff Hamilton went peat-free 30 years ago. Today, his son Nick owns and runs the fantastic Barnsdale Gardens and nursery organicall­y and without peat.

Peat substitute­s for growing media include wood fibre, coir (coconut fibre), composted bark, treated garden waste and even wool. Non-organic additives include mineral plant fertiliser­s plus sand or coarse grit, for better drainage.

In some peat-free products, rockwool or perlite are added to improve moisture retention and sustain root developmen­t. You can also add water-retaining gels to composts. These hold water, reducing the rate at which the growing medium dries.

It’s worth selecting high-quality peat-free composts, which are more likely to contain moisture controller­s. But if totally new to growing peat-free, you’d be wise to try several products before settling on one.

As with all growing media, used potting compost has value. Save the old growing medium for mixing into new garden compost. If you don’t make compost from garden waste, you should — it’s free soil conditione­r.

SHOCK OF THE NEW

THE change to peat-free may seem taxing. When you open your first bag, it might feel lumpy and need breaking down. Some products smell peculiar, too. And wood fragments or chunks of bark could be visible.

I’m currently planting summer pots with two options — MiracleGro Premium All Purpose Compost and Levington Peat Free. Containing coir and composted bark, they’re both dark-looking and pleasant to handle.

Despite being made from byproducts, composts are pricey — whether peat-free or not. But you’re likely to find it worth paying extra for premium products.

You may see ‘With Added John Innes’ printed on some bags. This is the name for specific recipes, developed in 1938 at what was then called the John Innes Horticultu­ral Institutio­n. All J.I. recipes contain loam, sand and, er, peat. So peat-free they ain’t.

WEEKS of wet weather have resulted in a plague of seedling weeds. On bare soil, the more troublesom­e annuals have spread faster than Covid. To make things worse, wet ground has made weeding almost impossible.

With better weather here at last, you can tackle the most invasive weeds. The worst, hairy bittercres­s, can germinate, flower and self-seed in just a few weeks. Other troublesom­e annuals include groundsel, red deadnettle and sow thistle.

Try to remove all those before they flower. If not flowering they’ll be safe to add to your compost. But be cautious with mature weeds. If their seeds have ripened, they could survive in home-made compost and create future problems.

With perennial weeds, young plants can develop from root fragments. Bindweed, ground elder and couch grass are quick to regenerate even from tiny pieces of root. So dispose of those with great care.

Systemic weedkiller­s such as glyphosate are good for clearing large infestatio­ns of perennial weeds such as bindweed, ground elder or couch grass. Use them sparingly, though and only where really needed.

If you garden organicall­y, use a long, thin trowel to dig up light outbreaks of bindweed and other weeds with creeping roots. For major infestatio­ns, lay black polythene over the ground for 12 to 18 months.

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Experiment: Substitute­s can be just as good, with added sand for better drainage
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Divide and rule: Get on top of weeds now before they take over

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