Claridge’s feels queasy at star chef ’s vegan menu
WHEN guests book a stay at Claridge’s, they look forward to dining on lobster en croute, caviar and foie gras in art-deco splendour at the top Mayfair establishment known as an ‘annexe to Buckingham Palace’ because of its longstanding connections with royalty.
Soon, however, its loyal regulars from around the world could be forced to tuck into nut roasts and lentil stews.
I can disclose that the five-star hotel is involved in very tense talks with its star chef, Daniel Humm, because he wants to turn the restaurant’s menu entirely vegan.
‘It’s a hotel nightmare,’ an insider tells me. ‘Bosses are terrified that Humm will leave if his demands are not met, which would mean they would be without him during the Christmas season, their busiest time of year.
‘But if they turn the restaurant vegan, they will upset thousands of regular guests.’
Humm (pictured) recently made headlines around the world by turning the £250-ahead menu at his three-Michelin-starred New York restaurant, Eleven Madison Park, totally plant-based.
There, diners can enjoy dishes including cucumber with melon and smoked daikon; fried pepper with Swiss chard; and courgette with lemongrass and tofu.
Meanwhile, the four-course menu at his Claridge’s restaurant, Davies And Brook, costs £125 a head and includes such mouth-watering options as caviar with sweet potato bonito and English muffin; roasted venison with beetroot; and, of course, foie gras with black truffle. A Claridge’s spokesman confirms that it’s in talks with Humm over his request, telling me: ‘We are constantly reviewing the offerings at Davies And Brook, including the possible introduction of a fully plant-based menu.’ However, my sources claim this diplomatic response merely hints at tensions behind the scenes. This week, Humm, 45, made an appearance at the Cop26 eco summit in Glasgow, where he pointedly declared his mission in life was ‘to make plant-based food delicious, magical and luxurious’. He added: ‘It’s better for our planet and our health.’ While such a dramatic switch might please a trendy young crowd, Claridge’s will be aware of the maxim: ‘Go woke, go broke.’