FELICITY CLOAKE’S

jelly cherry jubilee

This deliciously wobbly, cheerfully stripy pudding is a modern take on the flambéed cherry dessert created by the great 19th-century French chef Auguste Escoffier for the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

As well as sharing her ancestor’s love of dogs, horses and scotland — it was Victoria who purchased Balmoral, often described as Elizabeth ii’s favourite home — our Queen has spoken of the pleasure they have both found in the private gardens at Frogmore on the Royal Windsor estate.

she echoed the sentiments of Victoria on this ‘dear lovely’ retreat, known for its magnificent collection of flowering cherries.

indeed, the monarch has worn hats decorated with both cherry blossom and fruit, so i like to think she would enjoy this spectacular, and very British centrepiece — perfect for the big parties we will see in June.

The A-Z Of eating by Felicity Cloake (Fig Tree, £25).