Mix your own skincare cocktail
Combining different products can turbo-boost results to target spots, blemishes and dry skin
THE skincare savvy probably already know that there are some power ingredients — from salicylic acid and retinoids, to vitamin C and hyaluronic acid — that you might want to have in your regime.
Increasingly, you can buy these affordably in single-product formulations, meaning it’s easier than ever to get results without paying over the odds for a fancy bottle.
But what you might not realise is that you can increase the power of these ‘skincare heroes’ by combining each one with another, complementary ingredient.
‘Combining ingredients is a great way to boost the effects of your skincare, whether that’s to improve breakouts and acne, target hyperpigmentation or achieve glowing skin,’ says Dr Jason Thomson, Head of Medical at Skin + Me (skinandme.com), a service which provides remote prescription for skincare.
‘This is what we do when treating complex conditions such as acne and melasma (the most common cause of facial hyperpigmentation). For example, acne treatments often use an ingredient to target clogged pores, such as tretinoin or adapalene, and another ingredient to target acne-promoting bacteria, usually clindamycin or benzoyl peroxide. A multi-pronged approach leads to better results.’
If you’ve been bamboozled by those ‘single ingredient’ skincare brands — such as The Ordinary, Garden of Wisdom, Boots Ingredients, Revolution Skincare and more — which seem to require you to be a formulating chemist to work out what you need in your regime, try these simple mix-andmatch recipes to create your own supercharged skincare . . .
CLEAR DEAD SKIN WITHOUT IRRITATION Mix: Hyaluronic acid & lactic acid
‘AHAS (alphahydroxy acids) such as lactic acid and glycolic acid are excellent ingredients for exfoliation, removing a layer of dead cells,’ explains cosmetic chemist and formulator, Nausheen Qureshi (nausheen qureshi.com). ‘But they can dry skin out so it’s good to use a moisturiser.
‘However, you don’t want to use just any old moisturiser. The whole point of an AHA is to disrupt the top layer of the skin, so if you put a standard moisturiser on top, it prevents this happening and rather defeats the point.
‘Instead, you need a specific type of moisturiser called a humectant — such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid (HA). These draw water to the skin, without stopping the AHA from working. You get the benefits of exfoliation, without drying the skin.
‘If you have sensitive skin, you can apply hyaluronic acid before the lactic or glycolic acid for a gentler effect.’ TRY IT USING: Me+ Lactic Acid Booster, £5.99, superdrug.com and one of the hyaluronic acid products from Revolution Skincare (revolutionbeauty.com). They have a 2 per cent Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum (£8), or if you prefer a cream, a Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Gel Moisturiser (£8).
DOUBLE DOSE OF UV PROTECTION Mix: Vitamin C and ferulic acid
VITAMIN C is one of those ingredients that most skin experts adore. It helps brighten skin tone, is active in the fight against hyperpigmentation and has antioxidant powers which combat damage done by UV light and pollution. The problem is that it can be unstable, and doesn’t penetrate the skin easily.
However, a paper published in the Journal of Dermatologic Surgery suggests that ensuring your vitamin C is pH 3.5 or lower — which ferulic acid, another antioxidant, can do — improves both its stability and permeability. Another piece of research, in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, seems to show that adding ferulic acid to a blend of vitamin C and vitamin E could double its ability to protect the skin against UV damage. TRY IT USING: Q+A Vitamin C Brightening Serum (£9, qandaskin.com) and The Ordinary Resveratrol 3 per cent + Ferulic Acid 3 per cent (£7.70, deciem.com) which combines ferulic acid with resveratrol, another potent antioxidant.
Or, if you want to use a readymixed combination, try Skinceuticals C E Ferulic (£95, flawless body.co.uk). It’s expensive but recommended by more dermatologists than you can count.
BOLSTER YOUR SKIN BARRIER
Mix: Niacinamide and vitamin E ‘LOOkING at trends, in the wake of Covid, the number one thing that people care about is skin barrier protection,’ says Nausheen Qureshi.
That’s because whether it’s cracks in overwashed hands, or sore spots caused by mask-wearing, bolstering your skin’s barrier function is part of the solution.
‘Niacinamide, which is a form of vitamin B and vitamin E, are a power pairing,’ she says.
‘They’re two of the most stable vitamins out there, and if you look at any of the products that promise to give your skin an “invisible shield”, these soothing, repairing ingredients are probably the hero ingredients.’ TRY IT USING: Boots Ingredients Niacinamide Serum (£5, boots. com), a water-based serum, followed by Dr Organic Vitamin E Pure Oil Complex (£8.99, hollandandbarrett.com). Always apply water-based products before oil-based ones.
ZAP SPOTS WHILE MOISTURISING
Mix: Glycerin and salicylic acid WHEN it comes to breakouts and spots, salicylic acid is a hero ingredient thanks because of its ability to degunk blocked pores and reduce swelling and redness. However, it can also dry the skin.
‘When the skin feels dry, its natural reaction is to produce more oil and that’s exactly what you don’t want when it comes to spots,’ says Nausheen Qureshi.
‘But if you use it with something that will draw moisture to the skin, such as glycerin, you should get all the power of the salicylic acid, without your skin feeling dry and tight.’ TRY IT USING: Glycerin is such a skincare wonder, you usually find it already incorporated into products rather than as a stand-alone.
Find this combo in The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2 per cent Masque (£9.90, deciem. com), a weekly or twiceweekly treatment for spotprone skin.
Or, if you want to use glycerin and salicylic daily, Glow Hub’s Purify & Brighten Super Serum (£12, glowhub.com) combines two forms of salicylic alongside glycerin in a lightweight, nongreasy serum.