AN INSPECTOR CALLS
He pays his way... and tells it like it is
BRISTOL has some dreadful buildings of the kind only urban planners in the 1960s could have dreamt up. So it’s a relief to turn in to Grade I-listed Portland Square, laid out around central gardens, with St Paul’s church in one corner — and Artist Residence in another.
This gorgeous building was once a boot factory, then a squat for many years, and the clever people behind the boho boutique chain (this is the fifth) have managed to retain a strong sense of both.
There are steel girders and pulleys here, exposed brick and timber joists there, wacky art on the distressed walls (much of it involving phrases such as ‘party like it’s 1999’ and ‘if it’s not weird I’m not interested’), a wonderful steel lift shaft, concrete floors.
If you thought industrial chic was on the wane, think again.
There are 23 rooms, ranging from tiny broom cupboards (look away Boris Becker) to two large suites. Only a few rooms are taken when I arrive on Tuesday evening after the Bank Holiday — so the friendly young man in charge offers to upgrade me to a billet with a bath. But on reaching the room, it transpires that the sheets haven’t been changed from the previous occupants.
‘Oops,’ he says, and off we go back down the seagrass corridor to my original ‘Factory’ room, which has high ceilings, two big sash windows (three if you count the one in the shower room), a small black Smeg fridge, clothes rack with chunky hangers and touches such as a phone charger, ‘deep sleep’ pillow spray and Roberts radio.
There is a massive amount of space on the ground floor. One area has a pingpong table and photo booth — and the long wooden bar (with ‘Snog’ written above it) wouldn’t be out of place in a cowboy film. Yes, it’s a touch contrived in places (a lollipop sign says ‘gone to sea’) but the atmosphere is such that if you can’t have a good time here, you won’t have a good time anywhere.
Plans are afoot for a proper restaurant. For now, there are pizzas and several starters. I have three of the latter (sticky chicken wings, smoked bacon Caesar salad, rosemary fries) — all delicious.
This latest Artist Residence is a triumph. Not many people would have taken on such an audacious restoration project. To bring this building back to life is truly heroic.
Artist Residence 28 Portland Square St Pauls
Bristol BS2 8SA Tel: 0117 4288440, artistresidence.co.uk
Doubles from £125 room only ★★★★✩