Where to stay

Maison Barbillon

ON a side street near the station, Maison Barbillon has small stylish rooms and a bright and breezy feel. A free coffee machine in the reception is a plus, as is complimentary afternoon cake. A vinyl record player is also provided with Beatles and Pink Floyd LPs. Doubles from £60 (maisonbarbillon.com).

RockyPop Hotel

THIS has a modern, lively and colourful look with a big, open-plan restaurant and bar that’s home to table football and retro computer games. Rooms are slick and comfortable, with mustard yellow, grey and cobalt blue decor. If you’re in a hurry, the bar snack menu includes £8.50 pizzas. Doubles from £82 (rockypop.com).

Hotel 1924

WITH art deco design and minimalist rooms featuring wide beds and baths (in all bathrooms), Hotel 1924 is a hideaway between the old town and the station. The sleek downstairs bar offers cocktails featuring Chartreuse, a local tipple made by monks. Doubles from £86 B&B (1924hotel.com).

OKKO Hotels Grenoble Jardin Hoche

CLOSE to the old town, this modern hotel offers comfortable, ‘urban cocoon’-style rooms with free wifi and Nespresso machines. The exterior has an unusual appearance — a bit like a tall, thin slice of cake. Inside, expect a cocktail bar, restaurant, fitness room and sauna. Doubles from £67 (okkohotels.com).

Where to eat Le Boeuf au Comptoir

ON a corner near the River Isere, this nononsense restaurant serves frogs legs, salads and steaks. Dishes come with dauphinoise potatoes, a regional speciality. Rump steak with a blue-cheese or onion sauce is £21.50 (perfectly cooked). A bottle of good Cotes du Rhone is also £21.50. 17 avenue Felix Viallet (le-boeuf-aucomptoir.fr).

Le Seize (XVI)

LOOK no further for an elegant spot for lunch (or dinner), though the lunch menu is especially appealing; three courses from £19. On my visit, tables were busy and the cauliflower soup, leg of duck with seasonal vegetables, dauphinoise potatoes, wine gravy and sweet potato puree, followed by mango eclair, made for a fine meal. 16 Rue de Strasbourg.

Cafe de la Table Ronde

THIS is one of the oldest restaurants in France, dating from 1739. The ambiance is relaxed and welcoming, with banquette seating, swift service and tempting menus. Six oysters, steak and dauphinoise potatoes and a chocolate fondant came to £29. Philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau, local author Stendhal and singer Edith Piaf have dined here. 7 Place St andre (restauranttableronde-grenoble.com)

Le Cafe de la Place Championnet

IN an arty neighbourhood, this is great for coffee or an evening beer/cocktail, with its simple wooden tables and scuffed wood floor. A latte or cappuccino is £3.25. Food is not offered, but the proprietor lets you bring in a snack from the patisserie across the way. Cocktails from £6.90. 1 Place championnet.

Getting there

WiZZ air flies from Luton to Grenoble from £44 return (wizzair. com), Ryanair from Stansted (ryanair.com) and easyjet from Gatwick (easyjet.com). airport buses take 40 minutes to the centre from £27.50 return (actibus.com).