Wine to dine

Drinks writer Peter Ranscombe picks three wines to go with the Silver Darling’s recipes

BLOEMENDAL SUIDER TERRAS DURBANVILLE, 2014, £21.99 (INVERARITY 121)

There is a lot of flavour accompanying this oak-smoked salmon, with the capers, fennel and horseradish all vying for attention. When faced with bold flavours, you need a bold wine and this South African sauvignon blanc won’t disappoint. It brings asparagus, green pepper and gooseberry flavours to the party, along with bright acidity to cut through the oiliness of the fish. The fruit flavours are really concentrated and there’s a delicious hint of smoke too.

WALNUT BLOCK NUTCRACKER PINOT NOIR, 2013, £19.75 (VINTAGE ROOTS)

Red wine with fish? Is he mad? The answer is no: soft red wines like pinot noir can go really well with meaty fish such as tuna, especially when the latter is served on the rare side of medium. This bottle from New Zealand has warming wood-smoke aromas on the nose and gorgeous rich red cherry flavours on the palate, which are so intense they’re touching on dark plum or damson. It’s organic and vegan, and its refreshing acidity will work well with the saltiness of the parmesan.

ALVEAR SOLERA 1927 PEDRO XIMINEZ, £17 (FINE WINE CO)

What a delight to see an Ecclefechan tart on the menu, with its raisin and walnut flavours making an excellent match with complex sweet sherries. Look out for sherry made from the pedro ximinez grape, which is traditionally dried on straw mats so the water evaporates and the remaining sugar (and flavour) is more concentrated. This one is full of fig and prune fruit flavours, along with lighter caramel and spun-sugar notes. It’s luscious, but the acidity balances the sweetness and stops it becoming too cloying. For a look at South African producer Kleine Zalze’s 20th anniversary, check out Peter Ranscombe’s blog, The Grape & The Grain, on the Scottish Field website at www.scottishfield. co.uk/ category/grapegrain/