BLAZE A TRAIL ON SCOTLAND’S ADVENTURE COAST
Scotland’s adventure coast is perfect for exploring by foot, pedal or paddle power. The region is home to a vast network of trails for walkers, cyclists and kayakers, criss-crossing both land and sea. Weave your way along these trails and explore glens, climb hills and discover an intricate coastline with myriad islands and sea lochs. Lose yourself in the Highland wilderness, marvel at the wildlife and see ruined castles, ancient sites and vibrant communities along the way. Whatever your interests and abilities, there’s a trail for you in Argyll and the Isles.
Long-distance trails
Four of Scotland’s Great Trails are in Argyll and the Isles and are suitable for walking and cycling. The trails can also be linked, so you can join them together for an epic adventure. For something more manageable, you can break the routes into smaller sections and tackle them at your own pace.
The Three Lochs Way runs for 37 miles from Balloch to Inveruglas, crossing the Highland Boundary. You’ll be treated to spectacular views of of Loch Lomond and Ben Lomond.
The Kintyre Way traverses the wild Kintyre peninsula from Tarbert to Machrihanish. Along 100 miles you’ll discover hidden coves, castles and an abundance of wildlife.
The Cowal Way meanders for 57 miles across the Cowal peninsula, starting at Portavadie on Loch Fyne and ending at Inveruglas on Loch Lomond. It’s known as ‘Scotland in 57 miles’, and gives you a tantalising taste of the Highlands.
For an island adventure follow the West Island Way to discover Bute. This 30-mile trail from Kilchattan Bay to Port Bannatyne winds along seashore and through moorland, farmland and forest. Highlights include Ettrick Bay, a stunning mile-long stretch of sand.
There are several other great trails that dip in and out of Argyll, including the West Highland Way. This famous Scottish trail connects by ferry across Loch Lomond to the Three Lochs Way and Cowal Way. The John Muir Way starts or finishes in Helensburgh and connects to the Three Lochs Way and Argyll Sea Kayak Trail.
There are ferry links from the Kintyre Way to the Cowal Way and to the West Highland Way, and then to the Great Glen Way. So you can do an unforgettable route from the Mull of Kintyre all the way to Inverness!
Cycle routes
Scotland’s adventure coast was made for cycling – and motorbikes. Throughout Argyll the roads tend to vary from quiet to empty, the scenery is invariably magnificent and the route combinations endless. There are some fantastic long-distance routes for those seeking a challenge. Bikes go free on ferries, opening up a world of possibilities for putting together rides that suit your fitness level and interests.
The Caledonia Way, National Route 78 of the National Cycle Network, runs for 237 miles from Campbeltown to Inverness. The first section between Oban and Campbeltown offers adventurous cyclists
the chance to explore Lorn, Kilmartin Glen, Knapdale and the Kintyre peninsula.
National Route 75 of the National Cycle Network connects Leith with Portavadie and Tarbert via Edinburgh, Glasgow and the ferries between Gourock and Dunoon. At Dunoon, Route 75 takes you across the Cowal peninsula to the Portavadie ferry terminal.
For something slightly less strenuous, follow the West Loch Lomond Cycle Path from Balloch to Tarbet. This flat, 17-mile route is one that all the family can tackle. There are lots of lovely spots to visit along the way, including Luss and Firkin Point. Also in the Loch Lomond area is the Clyde Sea Lochs Trail, a driving or cycling route, which links a necklace of coastal communities fringing the south western edge of Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park. It runs for 65 miles from Dumbarton to Arrochar.
Or how about bikepacking? The newly launched 407-mile Wild About Argyll Bikepacking Trail provides an amazing cycling adventure in Argyll’s back country. Starting out in Helensburgh, the route takes in Cowal, Kintyre, Oban, Loch Awe and Loch Lomond.
By sea
It’s not just landbased trails on offer in Argyll and The Isles. With 23 inhabited islands and thousands of miles of coastline, you can explore by water too.
Discover a paddler’s paradise on the Argyll Sea Kayak Trail. Running from Ganavan Sands near Oban, to Helensburgh, the 92-mile route takes in some of Argyll’s most scenic coastlines and provides both the beginner and the most experienced kayaker with thrilling and rewarding adventures. Or how about exploring the area with the Five Ferry Challenge? Whether you’re motorised or pedal-powered, by catching five CalMac ferries you can travel from Ardrossan on the mainland to the Isle of Arran, then to the Kintyre peninsula, over to the Cowal peninsula followed by the Isle of Bute before returning to the mainland. Meanwhile, the 75-mile Oban Three Ferries route takes you onto Mull then Morvern which is perfect for a challenging but immensely rewarding cycle or car tour.
Events
Argyll’s running and cycling events are another good way to discover amazing trails. The Oban Sportive opens the season with two tough routes, one circling Loch Awe. The Mull Sportive in June has two circular routes that explore the east and rugged west of the island. The Ride of the Falling Rain in August on the island of Islay covers 100 miles, while the Tiree Ultra Marathon in September circumnavigates the island and its many beaches. Nearby on Coll the Half Marathon in August finishes with an evening ceilidh. The Paps of Jura Fell Race is for the super fit, following a challenging trail across these famous peaks on the island of Jura. The Kintyre Way Ultra takes place in May and the Cowal Way Chase Ultra in July.
One epic trail
Many of Argyll’s trails interconnect at towns, giving you the opportunity to put together one seriously adventurous trail. Cover 398 miles by foot, bike and kayak in a circuit that connects Helensburgh, Oban and Campbeltown. Walk the Three Lochs Way, Cowal Way and Kintyre Way from Helensburgh to Campbeltown, cycle the Caledonian Way from Campbeltown to Oban and then paddle the Argyll Sea Kayak Trail from Oban back to Helensburgh.
And all of this is within striking distance of Glasgow. You’ll find that the start and finish point of the routes, as well as other points along the way, link with trains, ferries and buses. It couldn’t be easier to escape the crowds, leave the traffic behind and blaze your own trail on Scotland’s adventure coast.
– whisper it - believe it is now on a par (pun intended) with Machrihanish itself.
The area’s third course is the least known and right on the southern tip of the peninsula. The Dunaverty is short (4,577 yards) and couthy, but is definitely worth getting to know. Wonderfully unpretentious and friendly, the course is perfect for less experienced golfers, while prices for a round start at £16 (Machrihanish start at £35, the Dunes at £40, making for some unbelievably good-value golf). Once again, the course is right on the water and has views out to Ailsa Craig.
You can fly to Campbeltown from Glasgow or catch the ferry from Ardrossan, but we drove: it’s just over three hours from Glasgow, and we broke the beautiful drive at the George Hotel in Inveraray. If you’ve got time, you could also take the ferry across from Gourock to Dunoon and then from Portavadie to Tarbert, which is a lovely route but more costly and time-consuming.
Once in Campbeltown, if it’s too wet or windy for golf, there’s always a tour of the town’s famous Springbank or Glen Scotia distilleries. As for places to stay, the Ugadale in Machrihanish is definitely the swankiest and most convenient hotel, while the hobbit-style eco-lodges at High Trodigal are superb and within an easy stroll of the Old Clubhouse, the pub next to the Ugadale, which is fantastic for pub grub and sharpeners. If you would rather stay in Campbeltown, the Ardshiel and Royal are the go-to options.
But Machrihanish is by no means the only option in Argyll. Indeed, there are endless options all along the coast, from Taynuilt to Tarbert and Craignure to Cowal, and all points in between. Helpfully golfadvisor.com has a full list of all 31 available courses, from the rough and ready to the more refined. And if your travelling companion doesn’t like golf, there is so much to do and see in Argyll that they need never be bored.
For serious golfers, the two courses on Loch Lomond provide some of the best golf in Scotland, although neither
Argyll and its environs are home to a great mix of courses
are traditional links-style courses. Loch Lomond is an exclusive private members club so you can only play with a member, but the Carrick is a newer yet thoroughly rewarding course where rounds start from £50. You can either stay locally at a variety of hotels (my choice would be the wonderful Loch Lomond Arms at Luss), while Glasgow is 30 minutes away and the sumptuous Mar Hall is 20 minutes away over the Erskine Bridge.
On the subject of luxury, the famous old Willie Campbell-designed Machrie links course on the whisky island of Islay has had a ton of money spent on it of late and is well worth a visit. It helps that the course’s hotel, which reopens in the first week of August this summer after a multi-million pound overhaul, is now one of the best on the west coast, while the island is a mecca for whisky lovers.
Quite what is happening on the neighbouring island of Jura, where hedge fund billionaire Greg Coffey has built what has been widely lauded as one of the best golf courses in the country on his Ardfin estate, is less sure. The problem is that no-one yet knows whether he’s going to allow mere mortals to play it, so keep a watching brief.
But if Jura and Loch Lomond are two corners of Argyll and Loch Lomond which are less accessible, they stick out all the more for that because, for the most part, one of the joys of golf in Argyll is that it is unhurried and relaxed. The courses range from Championship quality to the next tier up from a ploughed field, yet virtually all have amazing views, a warm welcome and represent great value. The only surprise is that more people haven’t cottoned on.