HIGHLAND GATEWAY
Easily accessed from the north and south, there’s no doubting Perthshire’s aesthetic appeal. The landscapes of this ‘big tree country’ are just crying out for exploration so lace up your boots and head for the hills, says Jamie Dey
Time to head for the hills for these beautiful Perthshire walks
Where the Lowlands embrace the Highlands, Perthshire is a county of contrasts from rich, rolling farmland to rugged uplands. Everything from a gentle stroll in bucolic surroundings to hikes into vast areas of empty wilderness is available for walkers.
It could be argued that Perthshire is also one of the most accessible areas of Scotland in which to enjoy a driving tour but as with all good tours there are plenty of excellent places to stop and enjoy a walk. So pack your rucksack and head out to explore all that is on offer.
Comrie is a place that has a comfortable feel which is very in keeping with the countryside of Perthshire. It is, however, sometimes called the Shakin’ Toon because of the earth tremors that can be felt because it lies on the Highland Boundary Fault. There are some lovely walks in the area, including an afternoon’s stroll to the Deil’s Cauldron, where the River Lednock pounds through a narrow gorge. Further up Glen Lednock you can begin an ascent of Ben Chonzie, one of the easiest Munros to walk up.
Along the A85, on the way to Crieff, is Comrie Croft, a delightful mix of glamping, camping and accommodation with mountain bike and walking trails; a perfect base for exploring.
Crieff itself can trace its prosperity back to the Victorian era when it became a popular spa resort. Above the town, the Knock of Crieff is a lovely little hill perfect for all the family to enjoy a short stroll up to a grand viewpoint of mountains and glens.
To the south is Auchterarder, a sleepy little town with a good network of trails and only a par-five away from the famous Gleneagles golf courses luxury hotel and spa.
Perth, the county capital, offers good riverside strolls with the chance of offsetting any benefits of walking by taking advantage of the city’s many eateries. Above Perth is a wonderful place for a stroll with a view – Kinnoull Hill.
To the east of Perthshire is another quiet town, Blairgowrie, with a fine network of way-marked walks, especially by the River Ericht. It is something of a gateway to the Grampian mountains to the north and a drive up the A93 to Spittal of Glenshee is a pleasant enough way to spend half an hour. Better still is to get out of the car once at the base of Ben Gulabin and walk up the big hill/little mountain for a few hours of musclebuilding exercise.
On the main route north of Perth – the A9 – the first popular stop is at Birnam and Dunkeld, two pretty villages either side of the mighty River Tay. As well as being a hotbed of salmon fishing, this is also Beatrix Potter country. The author once lived in a house on the Dunkeld side of the river where she wrote a letter with pictures in 1893 which was to become
The Tale of Peter Rabbit. The Tale of Jeremy Fisher and The Tale of Mrs Tiggy Winkle are also said to be based on the people and countryside she encountered on her trips here. The other literary reference here is Macbeth given that Birnam Hill was made famous in the ‘Scottish Play’. It makes for a great destination with a picnic on a summer’s day.
Another great walk leads by the Inchewan Burn to the Hermitage, where you can stride below towering pines past the waterfalls of the River Braan and a range of follies, including the 18th century Ossian’s Hall, built to honour the legendary bard.
Heading up the A9, the town of Pitlochry cannot be missed, whether that be for a stroll by Loch Faskally or a hike up the pointed summit of Ben Vrackie – followed by a pint in the bar of the rustic Moulin Hotel. Blair Atholl is further north and a good base for an exploration of deep glens, including Glen Tilt. It is also the last stop before the Pass of Drumochter, which leads into the Highlands and is a good, high-level start to bag a few Munros.
It is, however, worth turning off the A9 before Blair Atholl to head to Aberfeldy on the A827. Here are the Birks of Aberfeldy, immortalised by Burns and a great family walk. Another detour, past the village of Dull, leads to the Braes of Foss and a good path up one of the most famous yet easy-to-ascend Munros – Schiehallion.
If that sounds too strenuous, head for Kenmore at the eastern end of Loch Tay for lovely riverside strolls in another centre for salmon fishing. Nearby is Fortingall with its yew tree which dates back thousands of years and is said to be the oldest living thing in Europe.
The minor road on Loch Tay’s southern side is one of the most scenic in Scotland and has great views across the water to Ben Lawers. This huge Munro makes for a good, energetic day but a nature trail below the main car park is also an enjoyable option.
Loch Tay ends at Killin, another good base with the Falls of Dochart a popular stopping point for those passing through. Creag Bhuidhe, is a good objective for a walk – a short steep clamber up grass slopes to a view right along the length of the loch at the centre of this wonderful county.