THE HIGH ROAD
Arguably the most iconic walking destination in Scotland, the Highlands and far north boast views as perfect as the postcards, so are ideal for a restorative hike in the wilderness, says Jamie Dey
Walks for all abilities in the Highlands and far north
The Highlands of Scotland; just the name evokes thoughts of wild, rugged, beautiful landscapes – places to escape to. From towering mountains to sandy beaches, vertiginous sea cliffs to lonely glens, the range of terrain is rightly lauded across the world.
Everyone from William Wordsworth and James Boswell, to Andrew Greig and Diana Gabaldon, has described the exquisite scenery, and a good job they have done. But there is no substitute for being there, away from the roads and trains, amid memory-making views.
Crossing the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor, Glencoe comes into view and many motorists will slow right down as the imposing Buachaille Etive Mor comes into view.
The laybys around here can get pretty crowded but don’t just stop and take a picture, tie up your boots and head out into the hills and mountains. It doesn’t have to be the arduous ascent of Bidean nam Bian or the knife edge Aonach Eagach ridge – the Lost Valley (which is actually signposted) is a lovely walk and a great spot for a picnic, hidden away below towering buttresses and peaks.
Further down the glen is the Pap of Glencoe, a conical summit which provides a great, if slightly testing, day out. The views from the top are well worth the effort – and a picnic – with mountains in all directions.
Rounding the coast to the north, the long Loch Linnhe leads up to one of Scotland’s main walking centres – Fort William. Ben Nevis is the aim for many and its summit can be reached by anyone of reasonable fitness, as long as they use the straightforward mountain track rather than the more deathdefying ascents. Beyond ‘The Ben’ is Glen Nevis, a beautiful gorge best walked after rain when the river is in full flow. It is another superb picnic spot.
Across the loch from Fort William is some remote land, great for escaping to. Ardgour and Morvern are places of golden eagles and lonely hills but many head further, to Ardnamurchan. The most westerly point on the British mainland is a beautifully bleak place to look for whales and dolphins, part of the new Hebridean Whale Trail. Nearby is Sanna Bay, with views to the Small Isles from white sandy beaches. Further north there are more great beaches on Arisaig, not least at Morar and Camusdarach – a film location for Local Hero.
Back at Fort William, the Great Glen is there to be explored with great walks to be had along its length, including the chance of spotting Nessie (you could be the first). Breaking off north at Invergarry a high road leads past picture postcard scenery through Glen Shiel and down to the coast below towering mountains. Beyond is the Kyle of Lochalsh and the bridge to Skye but for some quieter scenery head north again past the pretty villages of Plockton and Applecross, the latter reached via the terrifically scenic Bealach na Ba road – some say it is dangerous but keeping at a decent speed makes it simply stunning.
Torridon’s seemingly inaccessible peaks are then reached and most are for the experienced only. However, a walk up the Beinn Eighe Mountain Trail above Loch Maree gives a great taste of the terrain, without so much risk.
Continuing to the far north, Assynt is reached beyond Ullapool. This is probably the most unusual area of mainland Scotland, looking unlike almost anywhere else. Devoid of trees, peaks rise steep-sided from moorland dotted with lochans – anglers love it here, as do great northern divers and corncrakes. Take a walk up Stac Pollaidh and gaze over the Inverpolly Nature Reserve to the whaleback mountain of Suilven; from the bottom it looks impossible but an hour or so later a good path will have led you all the way to the summit rocks.
Below Suilven the coast stretches round past headlands and beautiful beaches, especially at Clachtoll where you can stroll to an Iron Age broch. Sutherland itself has a plethora of beaches to explore, as well as superb headlands. Sandwood Bay near Kinlochbervie is one of the best. It is a place you can only reach on foot, or by boat. Many stories and legends abound but the real pleasure is in walking across windswept moorland to an empty beach with its very own sea stack.
At the very north west tip of the mainland is Cape Wrath and its huge cliffs, which can be reached by minibus from the Kyle of Durness. Durness itself is a great base for walking, not least the beautiful beach at Balnakeil, which leads to Faraid Head. Further east is Ben Hope, the most northerly Munro, which is worth the exertion, with stunning views across to the Outer Hebrides and round to Orkney.
This area is now more popular than ever thanks to the North Coast 500 driving route, and it is no wonder. Particular highlights for family walks are Dunnet Head and its beach, as well as the Stacks of Duncansby, near John o’ Groats; standing like petrified sailing boats as the waves lap around them.
Heading down to Inverness, Dunbeath Strath is well worth a stop. It was used as the setting for Highland River by Neil Gunn and passes an Iron Age broch, the ruins of Loedebest, a village left deserted by the Clearances, and eventually a white-walled cemetery, Tutnaguail, miles from the village and a place to savour the emptiness.
Before reaching the beautiful Highland capital of Inverness it would be remiss not to head down Glen Affric, arguably the most beautiful glen in Scotland. It is the ideal base for remote walking, and its easy little trails give a perfect taster of some of the most wonderful country in the Highlands.