PASTORAL PERAMBULATIONS
A visit to the bucolic Borders will provide enough gentle, yet glorious inspiration to last a lifetime for walkers of all abilities, says Nick Drainey
A visit to the bucolic Borders provides plenty of hillwalking inspiration
The Borders were once marketed as a great ‘short break’ destination. What tosh – the area has so much to offer you could stay for weeks and months without being bored.
From the beaches and cliffs along its coastline, to wooded glens and high hills there is somewhere for people of all abilities to enjoy a good walk, long or short.
If there is one thread running through the Borders which defines the region it is the River Tweed and its valley. Rising at Tweed’s Well in the old county of Peebles-shire, it runs for nearly 100 miles before emptying into the North Sea at Berwickupon-Tweed. Along the way some impressive countryside is passed, much of it perfect for walking.
In its higher reaches, as you would expect, there is remote country with rolling hills. The village of Broughton is a good place to head for and is often labelled as John Buchan country – the author’s love of walking began here when he came as a child with his family on holiday. Above the village is Broughton Heights, a great little hill with wonderful views.
Further downstream there are more gentle strolls to be enjoyed in and around Peebles. This is one of the main centres of the Tweed Valley and a walk from it to the medieval pile of Neidpath Castle is a good aim.
This part of the Borders is also a hub for mountain biking, with riders heading from across the UK to Glentress and its many trails. There are, however, walking trails interspersed among the rougher bike routes and those on two legs successfully share a vast expanse of hills and forest with those on two wheels.
Downstream there is more mountain biking to be enjoyed at Innerleithen, but also a good opportunity to join the Southern Upland Way, a 212-mile route from Portpatrick on the west coast to Cockburnspath on the east coast. Obviously, the whole of the long distance path would take a long time to complete but it can be done in sections and going up the Minch Moor from Traquair is a good introduction. This is a part of an ancient road which ran across the hills and is said to be home to buried treasure, left behind by the Marquis of Montrose in the 17th century when he was fleeing after being defeated in battle.
Because much of the area is covered by forestry there are some good waymarked trails for shorter walks and above Innerleithen a stroll up Pirn Hill and along the Leithen Water is a good way to spend an afternoon.
Downstream at Yair Bridge is another chance to join the Southern Upland Way with a walk up to the Three Brethren; these three 9ft cairns which tower over the trig point were erected at the start of the 16th century by the lairds of Yair, Selkirk and Philiphaugh to mark the boundary of their land. Despite all that show of power it is a wonderfully peaceful place to sit and gaze across the rolling hills of the Borders.
You are now in a part of the Borders where the rich landscape evokes images of a bygone era when the land was worked by those who lived on it. The Duke of Buccleuch’s Bowhill Estate, just outside Selkirk, is one such place with
trails marked out for lovely walks. The highlight is Duchess’s Drive, an old carriageway designed to enhance the views of Borders countryside. The Yarrow Valley, with the rolling hills of the Minch Moor and Three Brethren above it, is laid out before you, with the 15th-century Newark Tower (or Castle) a landmark on your return journey.
This is also the country of Sir Walter Scott and his home, Abbotsford, attracts many visitors. A walk in its grounds and up into the hills is well worth it – I once watched a young family of otters in the River Tweed early one morning, so try to get there before the crowds.
Melrose is something of a magnet for tourists and there are many walks taking in its heritage, from the abbey where the heart of Robert the Bruce was buried to the Roman fort and encampment of Trimontium. Just beyond this is one of the most photographed sections of the River Tweed, below the Leaderfoot Viaduct.
Scott’s View, above this, is also an extremely popular spot – said to have been loved by the author himself. You can gaze up the Tweed and across to the Eildon Hills, which are great for walking, but be aware that they are said to be inhabited by fairies and once spirited a man away – although Thomas the Rhymer did come back a number of years later with the ability to see into the future.
Below Scott’s View the Tweed slips past Dryburgh Abbey, where it is good for snowdrops. Take a walk by the river and up to a statue of William Wallace, erected in 1814 by the 11th Earl of Buchan.
The Tweed continues through Kelso, an impressive town that is home to the equally impressive Floors Castle. A river stroll here is a good afternoon’s outing, as is the Hirsel Estate, downstream at Coldstream.
The river then flows along the border with England before emptying at Berwick-upon-Tweed, but there are other places in the Borders to detour to for a walk, south to Jedburgh and more specifically Peniel Heugh with its huge Waterloo Monument built to celebrate the Duke of Wellington’s 1815 victory.
The coast, too, is a great place to head for dramatic walks and St Abb’s Head is hard to beat when it comes to wildlife spectacles. At this time of year thousands of kittiwakes, guillemots and razorbills make the huge cliffs their home, along with fulmars and even a few puffins.
Wherever you go in the Borders there is a quiet, but wonderful part of Scotland to explore – and take your time, it is worth more than one weekend of the year.