REGAL RAMBLING
Whether you are hoping for a bonny view or wish to follow in the footsteps of royalty, Aberdeenshire’s woodland, mountains and beaches offer some spectacular options – and there’s no shortage of wildlife, says Nick Drainey
Walk in the footsteps of royals in glorious Aberdeenshire
High mountains, long glens and a dramatic coast – Aberdeenshire has virtually every type of terrain a walker could wish for. When looking on a map the eye is drawn to the Granite City of Aberdeen. While it has its own beach to explore, the amount of countryside to enjoy right on the doorstep makes you want to reach for a pair of walking boots and a rucksack to head into a wilder, less urban setting.
Stretching west from Aberdeen, Deeside leads more than 60 miles into the heart of the Cairngorms. It is possible to climb some of the highest peaks in Scotland from Braemar, including the huge Ben Macdui above the chasm of the Lairig Ghru, which leads north to the Rothiemurchus Forest near Aviemore.
A plethora of other summits await the keen hillwalker but lower down, in the glens, there are plenty of riverside strolls to enjoy around the Linn of Dee and Linn of Quoich – an area where Caledonian pines are holding strong and making a comeback in places.
Like so much of the area, Queen Victoria made walking here popular after she and Albert had bought Balmoral, just down the road. The Royal connection remains strong and I am sure it is one of the few places where drivers slow down near big houses rather than big views in the hope of catching a glimpse of a prince, princess, or even the regent pruning some roses.
Braemar is also a good start to explore the Morrone Birkwood, spread below the mountain of the same name which towers above the village. These little trees, just coming into leaf, are actually really hardy and were some of the first to grow in Scotland after the last Ice Age. They are also a place for red deer to shelter so when walking through them it is always worth keeping an eye out for the majestic beasts.
At this time of year skiers and snowboarders are still heading up to Glenshee at the top of the A93. When the snow has gone this is a good spot to bag one of the easiest Munros – the Cairnwell. Even if you don’t take the chairlift it is only an hour or two to the top.
Heading down the River Dee, Ballater is a good walking base with riverside strolls available, as well as a stiffer hike up Craigendarroch for a good view of the broad glen and mountains. You can also detour up Glen Muick (pronounced Mick) for a stroll around its loch (a few royals have stayed in lodges in these parts). The more energetic can climb Lochnagar from here – a superb mountain with a stunning corrie immortalised in a children’s story by Prince Charles.
Aboyne is another good stop for walkers, especially with Glen Tanar right next to it. There are miles of marked trails through the pine woods and a long walk up to the most easterly Munro, Mount Keen.
Whether you have seen a royal, looked for one, or don’t care, the rest of Aberdeenshire should in no way be ignored by the walker. Back close to the Granite City is a wonderful little range of hills – Bennachie, above Inverurie. The highest point is Oxen Craig at 1,733ft but it is the slightly lower Mither Tap, a pointed rocky peak with a Pictish fort below the summit, which most people think of when Bennachie is mentioned.
To the north, there is some stunning coastal scenery to
explore, often overlooked by visitors from outside the region. The Ythan Estuary and the huge dunes of the Sands of Forvie are worth a long exploration by foot. Eider ducks love it here, as do seals, which enjoy a ready supply of salmon. To enjoy a good stretch of the legs you can walk the couple of miles to the old fishing village of Collieston.
When you are on this stretch of coast it is hard not to visit Cruden Bay and walk up to the magnificent Slains Castle, which inspired the tale of Dracula. It is also a good start for a walk to the wonderfully named Bullers of Buchan – sea arches best viewed when the tide is coming in with huge waves.
The Loch of Strathbeg is another good day out with sandy shores and dunes to stroll and a brilliant array of birdlife, including terns, which are currently displaying their spectacular show of airborne acrobatics.
Nearby Pennan draws many visitors because of its starring role as a location in the cult film Local Hero and just above it lies Troup Head, another birdwatching destination for its colony of gannets.
South of Aberdeen is some more wonderful coast to explore, not least near Stonehaven, from where you can wander along to Dunnottar Castle.
Perched on towering cliffs, it is one of the most photographed places in Scotland. Further south, just before the border with Angus is a great beach, tucked away below the village of St Cyrus.
A few cottages nestle above it but the isolated feel makes it a great escape from modern life, especially with old salmon bothies to peer into and the chance of dolphins and porpoises off shore.