THE ABERDONIAN: FULL STEAM AHEAD
Stephanie Abbot sits back and relaxes on The Aberdonian – one of the country’s few remaining steam train experiences, which runs from Edinburgh up the North East coast – and finds herself transported back in time
All aboard the Tornado, one of the country's few remaining steam trains
There are few things that symbolise a slower and more wistful era than the sight of a steam train winding its way around the countryside, billows of white smoke puffing through the air and lingering in its wake.
For anyone hoping to experience a snapshot of those days gone by, Scotland’s repertoire of steam train adventures has been given a boost.
In addition to the Strathspey Railway with trains departing from Aviemore, and The Jacobite Steam Train on The West Highland Line – helped no end by the mega franchise that is Harry Potter – The Tornado is the latest steam train ready to transport passengers back in time across Scotland.
I was one such passenger when I headed to Edinburgh Waverley to experience the Aberdonian route for myself. Completed in 2008, the A1, No. 60163 Tornado is the first new main line steam locomotive to be built in Britain for almost fifty years. It’s the result of a project that was launched in 1990 by a group of people in Darlington who wanted to revive the A1 class locomotives after the last of them was scrapped in 1966.
After 18 years of fundraising and construction – and at a cost of £3.3 million – the Tornado has even featured in Paddington 2 the movie and Top Gear.
While there are a number of routes on offer, The Aberdonian is the newest, getting its first run in March 2019. According to The Tornado’s commercial director Graeme Bunker, a mixture of nostalgia and fascination is fuelling the steady increase of passengers joining the Aberdonian route.
‘It’s basically a mobile time machine,’ he says. ‘The train comes into Edinburgh Waverley and it’s beside the modern trains. You get on and wind the clock back to the 30s or 50s and until you step off that train in Aberdeen, you’re on that time machine.
‘We’re out in the countryside and alongside the North East coast. It’s pretty much exactly as it’s been since nearly 140 years ago when the Forth Bridge was built. You’re still looking at the same kind of scenes people would have been familiar with 100 years ago. There’s something very special about that when it’s going past the window.’
Arriving at Waverley on a busy Thursday morning, I saw for myself the crowds of people who had gathered in anticipation of the Tornado’s arrival. Positioned across various vantage points and with cameras poised, keen trainspotters were ready. As I stepped on to the train and made my way through the cabin to my seat, the ‘time machine’ effect Graeme describes is apparent.
I settled into my comfortable seat and admired the crisp white table cloth and silverware laid out in front of me. It was a world away from the sticky fold down tables I’m used to.
Just as I was admiring my surroundings, an extremely polite and well-dressed waiter offered me a complimentary glass of champagne. Without a second thought for the
“You get on and wind the clock back to the 30s or 50s – you’re 0n a time machine
time (it was 9.30am) I gladly took the refreshment. Champagne is Champagne after all.
As we set off from Waverley I could feel myself slowly letting go of my hardwired need to busy myself during the commute, and I began to relax. What followed was the heartiest morning feast I believe I’ve ever seen.
‘The Great British Breakfast’ as it’s known, all silver service, included fresh melon and yoghurt, followed by a bread basket stuffed with warm toast and fresh pastries and a full English breakfast.
Travelling across the Forth Rail Bridge on one of the country’s few steam trains whilst tucking in to a bounty of delicious food and being free from the distractions of smart phones or laptops felt very special. As we made our way along past Montrose and Stonehaven, the views were the only entertainment required.
We arrived in Aberdeen just before two o’clock and passengers have until 5.30pm to explore the city and surrounding area. There are options to visit Crathes Castle, Glen Garioch Distillery (passengers would leave the train at Stonehaven and rejoin it at Aberdeen) or simply take a wander into the Granite City itself to shop and possibly enjoy a cocktail or two in plush watering holes like Orchid or Grape and Grain.
The journey home is combined with a four-course dinner that included a smoked mackerel pate and a roasted shoulder of lamb with haggis and a trio of cheescakes.
As I stepped back on to Princes Street after a day of time travelling, it took me a moment to switch my mind and body back to the pace of Edinburgh locals, more’s the pity.