PRACTICALLY PERFECT
Whether you’re looking for a leisurely stroll through Blair Atholl, a saunter along one of Kenmore’s waymarked trails or a more strenuous hike up Ben Lawers, Perthshire is a destination that offers something for everyone, says Nick Drainey
Perthshire offers something for everyone, from leisurely strolls through Blair Atholl to hikes up Ben Lawers
Ben Gulabin stands above the Spittal of Glenshee, almost like a guard blocking the way to the high Grampian mountains beyond. This is Highland Perthshire at its best, a place of rugged mountains, deep glens and fast flowing rivers.
In contrast are the rolling fields and wide open straths in southern reaches of this ancient county where being outdoors is a must – such is the wonderful array of scenery to be enjoyed.
For centuries Perth has been a seat of power, a base for the old kings of Scotland, long before Sir Walter Scott’s writings led to the epithet of The Fair City. A stroll along the Tay and up to the wide expanse of parkland at North Inch is a good way to work up an appetite for one of the many eateries in the city. Or Kinnoull Hill with its Gothic folly, designed to make the cliff top and river look like the Rhine.
Further north is Blairgowrie, a town blessed with many marked trails, ideal for a stroll on an autumn day. A favourite has to be wandering along the River Ericht then up to The Knockie – you pass Cargill’s Leap, a narrow gorge full of foaming water and said to be named after Donald Cargill of nearby Rattray, a Presbyterian minister and Covenanter who escaped troops by jumping across the River Ericht at this spot.
Heading up into the Highlands is the Spittal of Glenshee, a place where recreational skiing originated in Scotland. On the lower slopes of Ben Gulabin you can see the ruins of the Gulabin Hut, built in the 1940s and 50s by the Dundee Ski Club before the larger Glenshee development took over.
The A9 is one of the busiest tourist routes in Scotland, and no wonder. North of Perth are Dunkeld and Birnam on either side of the Tay. A walk along the river here is a delight, taking in an ancient cathedral, Niel Gow’s Oak (where the 18th-century fiddler is said to have composed and played), and the famous Birnam Oak, reputedly the last of the woodland which covered the area 1,000 years ago and was immortalised by Shakespeare in Macbeth. This is also home to the Taybank, one of the best hostelries in Scotland, renowned for its evening folk music.
Pitlochry is much busier, with more shops for those that like woollens, linens and miniature bottles of whisky. And there is also a great network of paths. The Enchanted Forest music and light show has been cancelled this year but you can still walk along Loch Faskally and through the woods where sunlight puts on its own display through the branches. Look down as well as this is a good place for slow worms.
Blair Atholl has a more regal feel with Blair Castle rising above. The Atholl Estates have a network of paths which manage to strike a great balance between hillwalkers, mountain bikers and field sports enthusiasts. A good stroll is up to the Whim, a folly which makes for a great viewpoint, and then on up Glen Banvie before reaching the delightful Falls of Bruar.
Aberfeldy is a proper market town, epitomising rural Perthshire as a place where farming, forestry and tourism go hand in hand. It has less of a chocolate box feel even though it is home to the Birks of Aberfeldy, a wonderful gorge to walk up more than 200 years since it was immortalised by Burns.
Kenmore on Loch Tay is known for its salmon fishing and there are good walks on laid out trails to be enjoyed. Many head further along the huge loch and up to the Fortingall Yew – said to be the oldest living thing in Europe. In this part of Perthshire you are surrounded by impressive mountains including Ben
Lawers – if this is a tough proposition there is a nature trail on its lower slopes, perfect for enjoying being high up without as much exertion as getting to the summits.
One peak that is relatively easy (although it is a full day on the hill) is Schiehallion, a mountain of myth and legend from where you can gaze across the Central Highlands. It was here that contour lines were developed – a by-product of 18th-century experiments to measure the gravitational pull of the mountain. It is also known as a home to fairies – so keep an eye out as you make your way up the excellent path built and maintained by the John Muir Trust.
To the south, below the bulk of
Ben Chonzie and the mountains, lies Strathearn. In the west of the area is Comrie, known as the Shaky Toon because of the number of minor earth tremors it receives, caused because it sits on the Highland Boundary Fault. A good walk leads to the Deil’s Cauldron in the River Lednock which, as the name suggests, is a swirling mass of water below the Melville Monument. Along the strath, Comrie Croft has become popular among mountain bikers but there is also the chance to walk there from the town, and enjoy some delicious cake in the café.
Crieff is much larger and busier but trails above the town and along the River Earn make for good strolls – one good route is Lady Mary’s Walk. The other main town in Strathearn is Auchterarder, again with a good selection of marked trails with views to the Ochil Hills to the south and the Highlands to the north – all the attributes of Perthshire.