THERE'S NO PLACE LIKE HOME
Here to inspire your next staycation, Nick Drainey has rounded up some top walks, hotels and eateries
Staycations are all the rage this year. They have to be because of the restrictions surrounding Covid but that means there is an excellent chance to explore Scotland. Many of us will return to favourite spots, or visit the popular haunts which are, after all, popular because of their stunning location or great things to do. However, with the islands now difficult to access and many of the most popular destinations packed out, there are many places slightly off the beaten track which are more than worthy of a trip, for a long weekend or even a full summer holiday.
One thing that really helps to gain a feel for an area is to go on a walk. It sounds simple but a stroll along a burn, coast or hillside allows the senses to take in the landscape and wildlife.
So here is a guide to some of the out of the way places you can enjoy this summer, along with tips on where to walk, what to see, where to stay and that all important decision of any break – where to eat.
There are many places just off the beaten track which are more than worthy of a trip
NEW ABBEY, DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY
FAMILY WALK
A stroll up to the Waterloo Monument, built at the start of the 19th century to commemorate the famous battle, brings lovely views across the salt marsh and sand flats which form marbled patterns at the estuary of the River Nith.
HARDER WALK
Criffel, just to the south, looks out across the Solway Firth. A steep clamber up its heather-clad slopes rewards you with brilliant views, including the Lake District and even Ireland on a clear day.
PLACES TO STAY
The Abbey Arms is a wonderful country pub in the heart of the village, a perfect base for any staycationer.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Sweetheart Abbey is a monument to love and devotion. Founded in 1273 by Lady Dervorgilla of Galloway whose husband Lord John Balliol died in 1268. She carried his embalmed heart in a casket and in 1289 was laid to rest at the abbey, still clutching it. The amazing Caerlaverock Castle and nature reserve are nearby.
PLACES TO EAT
Cavens Country House Hotel, south on the A710, offers a wonderful dining experience. The Abbey Cottage tea rooms in the village are also a thing of rare beauty.
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The amazing Caerlaverock Castle and nature reserve are nearby
LANGHOLM, DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY
FAMILY WALK
Follow the River Esk to Duchess Bridge – the first cast-iron bridge built in Scotland – which crosses the water and makes for an excellent family stroll.
HARDER WALK
Tramp up to Calfield Rig and stride out on top of the wonderful rolling hills of the Southern Uplands. Extensive views keep the legs going on a six-mile route.
PLACES TO STAY
The Douglas Hotel has retained its history as an old coaching inn and is one of the best places in the area.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Langholm is wonderfully out of the way, meaning touristy visitor centres are in short supply. It is well worth a trip to the monument (in the shape of a large book) to poet Hugh MacDiarmid, and a very short walk up the path beyond to the Malcolm Monument from where there is one of the best views in Scotland.
PLACES TO EAT
The Douglas Hotel is a good option, as is the Eskdale Hotel, just down the road.
GULLANE, EAST LOTHIAN
FAMILY WALK
When the tide is out head down to the sweeping sandy bay at Gullane Bents and go left (west) to make your way past rocky outcrops to Gullane Point (if the tide is in, you can detour up to a higher path which starts from a car park).
HARDER WALK
Gullane Bents is a lovely place to linger but heading right (east) can lead you on to one of the best coastal walks in Scotland – the six miles to North Berwick, passing little coves, rocky outcrops and views of islands. Enjoy an ice cream and then start the return – or catch the bus.
PLACES TO STAY
On the edge of Gullane is the luxury hotel Greywalls, right next to the hallowed greens and fairways of Muirfield golf course.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Apart from stunning beaches and world-class golf courses, just down the road is the Scottish Seabird Centre in North Berwick, with excellent displays, binoculars and telescopes and boat trips to the huge gannet colony on Bass Rock.
PLACES TO EAT
The Bonnie Badger is Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin’s first eaterie outside Edinburgh, and well worth a visit (it also has rooms). Try the Golf Inn for good unpretentious fare.
CRAIL, FIFE
FAMILY WALK
Head west from Crail’s pretty harbour and follow the coast towards Anstruther, passing the strange rock formations of Caiplie Caves on the four-mile stroll which ends at one of the best places for fish and chips in the country.
HARDER WALK
Go in the other direction along the coast, round Fife Ness to the golf courses and beaches at Kingsbarns. You can return across rolling farmland from there or continue all the way to St Andrews, just over 14 miles from Crail.
PLACES TO STAY
There are some very smart hotels in this part of the world because of the highend golf courses but for some traditional accommodation with luxury style, try self-catering at the wonderfully appointed Harbourside House, looking over the moored boats.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
St Andrews, with its golf museum and ruined castle, is just down the road but on the way stop off at Kingsbarns Distillery, which has great tours, a wellstocked visitor centre and lovely café.
PLACES TO EAT
It is very hard to beat fresh crab and lobster, cooked while you wait at a hut at Crail harbour. Or fish and chips after a walk to Anstruther is a great treat – The Anstruther Fish Bar at the harbour is very well regarded although some locals insist The Wee Chippy, at the other end of the waterfront, is better.
KILLIN, STIRLINGSHIRE
FAMILY WALK
The Falls of Dochart are a ‘must see’ and can be combined with a three-mile stroll along the waymarked Auchmore Circuit through woodland and viewpoints looking over the surrounding mountains.
HARDER WALK
Head down Loch Tay and go up Ben Lawers – only a touch below 4,000ft and one of the grandest mountains in the country.
PLACES TO STAY
The Ardeonaig Hotel on the south side of Loch Tay is due to reopen for this summer – a long-standing country house-style retreat with amazing South African-style huts or rondavels.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Take the lovely drive on the twisting single-track road along the south side of Loch Tay to the Scottish Crannog Centre at beautiful Kenmore – a fascinating museum with a reproduction of an Iron Age dwelling built on stilts in water.
PLACES TO EAT
If the weather is kind, the tables outside the Falls of Dochart Hotel are a great place to watch the spectacular cascade of water across the road. For fine dining, Ardeonaig is stellar.
LOCHAWE, ARGYLL FAMILY WALK
Stroll over to Kilchurn Castle – Historic Environment Scotland place it among the most photographed castles in the country.
HARDER WALK
Ben Cruachan is a huge, sprawling mountain which dominates Loch Awe and the route west to Oban. A ridge links it to a second Munro, Stob Daimh, making for a full, tough day.
PLACES TO STAY
The Taychreggan Hotel is a luxurious spot, secluded on the lochside, half an hour from the village. Virtually next door to it is the wonderful Ardanaiseig, and I’d heartily recommend the Kilchrenan Inn. All three can also provide excellent food.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Just under an hour south of Loch Awe is Kilmartin Glen, a tranquil backwater with a rich past – there are over 350 historic sites, dating back up to 5,000 years, within 6 miles. Some of the best-preserved burial chambers and standing stones are within a stone’s throw of the Kilmartin House Museum.
PLACES TO EAT
The Ben Cruachan Inn is a traditional spot on the main road, serving great food and with excellent accommodation.
BLAIR ATHOLL, PERTHSHIRE
FAMILY WALK
Glen Banvie is a wonderful waymarked route which takes you above the village through woodland next to a tumbling burn. Detour to The Whim, an 18th-century folly of Gothic stone arches with views down towards Blair Castle, and a good picnic spot.
HARDER WALK
Go up Glen Tilt for a ten-mile walk into the middle of nowhere. For even more exertion try the three Munros of the Beinn a’ Ghlò range.
PLACES TO STAY
The Atholl Arms Hotel has a dining room lined with stags’ heads and a lovely bar.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Blair Castle is one of those places you just have to see – a quintessential Scottish seat of power.
PLACES TO EAT
The Bothy Bar at the Atholl Arms Hotel is the perfect cosy retreat after a day on the hill. You can also stock up at the House of Bruar, just to the north.
BRAEMAR, DEESIDE
FAMILY WALK
The Linn of Dee is a place for a picnic by waterfalls and little pools, and you can also enjoy a family stroll up Glen Lui, right in the heart of Upper Deeside.
HARDER WALK
There are Munros aplenty in this area, with routes that can take more than 12 hours. Although not above 3,000ft itself, Morrone gives a grandstand view of this mountainous country and is a great way to work up an appetite.
PLACES TO STAY
The Fife Arms in the centre of the village has been transformed into a boutique hotel while still retaining the traditional feel of a country house – one of the best in Scotland. The nearby NTS property Mar Lodge is also very good value (ask to see the chapel and the famous Stag Ballroom). The Invercauld Hotel is due to reopen this summer and will be worth trying.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Balmoral is the Highland home of the royal family but open to the public in the early summer, offering a fascinating insight into over 150 years of regal history.
PLACES TO EAT
It is hard to look beyond the Fife Arms Hotel with food from pub grub to fine dining.
PORTSOY, MORAY COAST FAMILY WALK
Head west along the dramatic coast to the beautiful bay at Sandend (take a bucket and spade if you have children).
HARDER WALK
East along the coast is Troup Head, an important spot for birds as the only mainland gannetry in Scotland, and a hotspot for basking sharks. You can reach it on a short stroll but for a longer walk along to the clifftops, start in Gardenstown.
PLACES TO STAY
Durn House, just outside the village, is a luxurious country house with boutique rooms and some fine dining.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Portsoy comes alive with all types of water craft at the annual Scottish Traditional Boat Festival. This year it is on 26 and 27 June. Or, if you like your Georgian mansions, head along the coast to Duff House in Banff. The William Adam creation has been lovingly conserved by Historic Environment Scotland.
PLACES TO EAT
The Shore Inn by the harbour is the best place to retire to at the end of the day.
FORTROSE, BLACK ISLE
FAMILY WALK
Chanonry Point is probably the best place in Britain to see dolphins. It stretches into the Moray Firth and on a sunny day it is a great place to gaze out to sea and inland towards the Great Glen. Time your walk from Fortrose to coincide with the tide as this is when the fascinating creatures come here to feed.
HARDER WALK
Head inland to Garve, on the Ullapool road, and walk up the Munro of Ben Wyvis. It is a huge bulk of a mountain with great views across the Highlands and up to the Far North.
PLACES TO STAY
The Anderson is a restaurant with rooms and one of those cosy places you wish was your real home. For a more formal and grand experience, try the nearby Newhall Mains, which has its own grass landing strip for private planes.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
A boat trip is always fun and they run from Avoch, just down the coast. Also, the 13th-century ruins of Fortrose Cathedral are a good place to while away an hour or so – it was the former seat of the Bishop of Ross.
PLACES TO EAT
The Anderson is a great place to eat and has a renowned selection of whiskies. Also, try Crofters and the Beach Café in Rosemarkie.
PLOCKTON, WESTER ROSS
FAMILY WALK
It is a short walk south west of Plockton to reach a coral beach – perfect for exploring or a family picnic.
HARDER WALK
Drive a short way north, to Coulags, and walk up the Munro of Maol Chean-dearg. There is a section of scree which rewards you with a summit view across a landscape of mountain and sea.
PLACES TO STAY
The Plockton Hotel is a great place to stay with rooms which are on the right side of luxury to avoid being stuffy.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
Calum’s Seal Trips are something of an institution in Plockton. A trip on the Sula Bheag will live long in the memory with the chance of spotting an array of wildlife, as well as the seals.
PLACES TO EAT
The Plockton Inn has fantastic seafood, and in such a location why would you want anything else? Try the Plockton Hotel as well.
LOCHINVER, SUTHERLAND
FAMILY WALK
A walk through Culag Woods gives a flavour of everything Assynt has to offer. Tranquil woodland, coastline and mountain views will keep all members of the family enthralled on a short walk to enliven the senses.
HARDER WALK
Suilven’s huge dome looms large over Lochinver and is an iconic mountain. The way up is tough – clambering to a ridge before reaching the summit on a route which can take nine hours, there and back.
PLACES TO STAY
The Albannach is a superb retreat – they revel in the fact that there are sea and mountain views, but a poor mobile phone reception.
THINGS TO DO/SEE
This area is all about the scenery – drive up to the beach at Clachtoll with its pounding surf on white sands. Or try Knockan Crag, on the road to Ullapool. Run by Scottish Natural Heritage, it tells the story of how some of the main principles of geology were discovered in the area (nowhere near as dull as it sounds) and is great for children with a hands-on exhibition.
PLACES TO EAT
The Lochinver Larder is a pie shop like no other. Fillings of over-cooked stewing steak are not available but the wide selection on offer is award-winning. A bistro also serves superb food.