Word on the street
There is more to street food than a burger van on the edge of the motorway. Food critic Ailidh Forlan is delighted to see an explosion of top-quality vendors round the country
Deliciously comforting and authentic to the core, street food is on the rise, writes Rosie Morton. It takes just a stroll through the spice-infused air of Singaporean hawker stands or a chat with ‘Nonna’ serving her signature arancini in the winding streets of Rome to see that these vendors are the beating heart of communities round the globe. At last, Scotland is following their lead.
‘This is street food’s time to shine,’ says Ailidh Forlan, a fulltime food critic and creator of Edinburgh-based food blog Plate Expectations. ‘A great deal of people are still uncomfortable about being inside a stuffy restaurant, sitting in close proximity to others. Everyone wants to be outside to eat good food and reconnect with nature. Street food is perfect for that.’
Keen to dispel the myth that Scottish pop-up kitchens consist of greasy chip vans on the side of the M8, Ailidh wrote a book – Street Food Scotland: A Journey of Stories and Recipes To Inspire – in which she documents the country’s up and coming vendors. From Glasgow’s Platform to Edinburgh’s The Pitt market, Ailidh has uncovered natural, untainted, local fare at every turn, with some sellers foraging for their ingredients.
‘Street food is considered food,’ explains Ailidh. ‘I love the fact that everything is in a small dish, at an accessible price point, and you can order lots of different things to share. You are also able to watch your food being cooked and speak with the person cooking it. You learn a lot about their food and their journey. Often that makes me enjoy the food more. You don’t get the same experience in a restaurant.’
Ailidh, who left behind her job as a marketing director in a software company to focus entirely on Plate Expectations, launched her book in 2019, dedicating it to her grandfather Kenneth Haxton who whetted her appetite for new food experiences. Since then, the book has been praised by acclaimed chefs including Scotland’s National Chef Gary Maclean and restauranteur Tony Singh.
‘If you think of Christmas markets in Germany, and certainly in Greece and China as well, a lot of other cultures have street food ingrained in them historically,’ says Ailidh. ‘Scotland doesn’t have that. We are adopting their cultures, but we’re getting rather good at it. I think that should be celebrated.’
Top-notch food needn’t always be served on linen tablecloths with silver service (a luxury though it is). This everevolving culinary trend is fast becoming a fixed feature in our cities.
So, Scotland – look out your scratchiest tweed picnic blanket, swoop in on the eclectic mix of sweet and savoury stalls, and gather the hungry troops. Scottish street food is here to stay.
Alanda’s Scottish Lobster Roll
Serves 4
Ingredients
2 cooked Scottish lobsters
2 large celery sticks
½ cup (approx 115g) of free-range mayonnaise 1 large lemon for squeezing Hebridean sea salt Freshly ground black pepper
4 brioche finger buns
Method
Halve the lobsters and remove the meat, chop into generous bite-sized chunks and finely dice the celery.
In a bowl add the lobster, mayonnaise and celery. Mix until there is an even coverage.
Halve the lemon and squeeze it all into the mix. Add sea salt and black pepper to taste.
Place your lobster mix into the fridge for 5 to 10 minutes. This allows it to absorb all the flavours.
Lightly toast your brioche buns, split the tops and load with your lobster roll mix.
The Cheesy Toast Shack’s Arbroath Smokie Grilled Cheese Toastie
Serves 1
Ingredients
½ Arbroath Smokie, flaked
A very big handful of good quality, extra mature cheddar ½ onion, finely sliced
Splash of white wine
2 cloves of garlic
1 tbsp double cream
1 knob of salted butter
1 free-range egg, hard boiled and sliced
Salt and pepper to season Parsley, a couple of sprigs
2 slices of sourdough bread
Full fat mayonnaise
Method
Fry onion and garlic with butter until softened. Then add white wine and reduce. Once wine is reduced, add the cream. Remove from heat and set aside.
Lay out sourdough bread, layer up with cheddar, flaked Arbroath Smokie, sliced egg, and the onion, garlic and white wine mix. Season and top with a little parsley.
Lightly spread a layer of mayonnaise on each side of the bread (outside) and grill. This can either be done in a contact grill, or on a flat griddle, on a low to medium temperature, to allow the cheese to be melted on the inside, and the bread to be a nice golden brown on the outside.
Don’t forget to cut it in half on the grill and add a mature cheddar weld for extra indulgence.
“This ever-evolving culinary trend is fast becoming a fixed feature in our cities
Linton & Co’s Isle of Skye Sea Salted Caramel Bites
Makes 25
Ingredients
1 tsp vanilla essence 160ml double cream 60g salted butter 160g caster sugar 160g golden syrup 1 tsp Isle of Skye Sea Salt
Method Pan one
Add sugar to pan, then add syrup.
Put on low heat on a small ring.
Stir sugar and syrup together and keep on low heat to melt and combine.
Turn up heat slightly once sugar is dissolved.
Use sugar thermometer to test heat. Take it up to 125°C. Also judge by colour: it should be a deep brown caramel.
Pan two
Don’t turn on the heat for pan two until pan one is almost ready. Put half of the butter in the pan with all of the cream and all of the vanilla.
Add salt into the pan: taste it, you can add more salt later once sauce is ready.
Melt on a low heat to combine ingredients.
To combine
Slowly add pan two’s butter and cream to pan one.
As it bubbles add the second lot of butter. Take the temperate back up to 110°C. Test in jug of cold water by putting a spoonful of the mixture into a jug of cold water – if it holds together and solidifies nicely, but is still chewy, then it’s the correct consistency.) Taste: add more salt if required. Pour into baking tray lined with parchment paper. Cool for 20 minutes. Scatter Isle of Skye Sea Salt on top.
Cool for 3 hours, then cut into chunks.
Wrap in parchment paper to keep fresh.
Freddy & Hicks’ Mexican Quinoa Burger
Serves a party
Ingredients
250g dried quinoa, cooked in water at ratio 1:1.75
1 cup (approx 256g) kidney beans, drained
¾ cup (approx 150g) tinned sweetcorn, drained 200g cheese (vegan or dairy), grated
1 tbsp coconut oil
1 large onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp cumin
2 tsp smoked paprika
½ tsp chilli powder
1 tsp salt
1 cup (two handfuls) fresh coriander, chopped
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 ½ tsp liquid smoke (a flavouring that can be bought pre-made) 50g plain or gluten-free flour
Method
Cook the quinoa in water until it is absorbing the water, then put the lid on, turn heat off and leave it to finish by itself. The quinoa should be slightly undercooked and definitely not mushy. Fry the onion and garlic in the coconut oil until soft and fragrant, then add the cumin, paprika, chilli powder and salt and cook until dispersed.
In a large bowl combine the quinoa, kidney beans, sweetcorn, onion and spices, coriander, tomato paste, liquid smoke, cheese and flour. Mix thoroughly and allow to cool in the fridge. Form into 130g balls, squeezing them between your palms into a burger shape. Fry in coconut oil until browned on both sides and a bit crispy.
The Liberty Kitchen’s Rhubarb & Rose Porridge
Serves 2
Ingredients
100g rolled oats 700ml water
Pinch of Himalayan pink salt or sea salt
For the rhubarb and rose compote (6 servings)
6 rhubarb stalks, trimmed into 1-inch chunks 2 tbsp rosewater
1 tbsp unrefined caster sugar or agave nectar
To serve
Edible dried rose petals Seeds Nuts Plant-based milk
Method
Add the oats, water and salt to the pan.
Bring to the boil then turn down and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring until soft and creamy. Meanwhile add the rhubarb and the rosewater to another pan, sprinkle with sugar and bring to the boil stirring gently to avoid breaking up the rhubarb too much.
Cook for around 5 minutes and remove from the heat.
To serve
Top the warm porridge with the rhubarb compote, sprinkle with edible rose petals, chia seeds or nuts and seeds of your choice and a little plant-based milk.
The compote is also delicious cold, drizzled over overnight oats or with granola and natural yoghurt or plant-based yoghurt.
Mana Poke’s The Ponzu Poke
Serves 6
Ingredients
1½ cups short-grain sushi rice
600g sushi-grade yellowfin tuna or salmon 4 tbsp tamari gluten-free soy sauce
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
1 tsp grated ginger
1 tsp minced garlic
3 spring onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced 3 blood oranges, juiced
3 limes, juiced
For the slaw
4 carrots, grated Red cabbage, sliced 2 tbsp coriander, chopped 2 tbsp mint, chopped 2 tbsp basil, chopped 2 limes, juiced
1 tbsp honey
2 tbsp fish sauce 1-inch piece of ginger, grated
For the pickles
300g radish; 2 cucumbers; 3 tbsp rice vinegar; 1 tbsp caster sugar; salt to taste
Extras
2 large, ripe avocados; sesame seeds; handful of coriander
Method
Rinse the rice in a fine-mesh strainer. Cook according to instructions. With a sharp knife, cut the fish into 1-inch cubes. In a large bowl, mix together the soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, blood orange juice, limes to taste. Add the fish and green and white of the spring onions and stir gently to combine. This can be done an hour in advance. Keep chilled.
For the slaw, grate carrot and slice cabbage in a bowl and add fish sauce, lime juice, honey, coriander, mint, basil and ginger. Mix. For the pickles, slice the radish and cucumbers and pickle with rice vinegar, sugar and salt. Before serving, pit and slice the avocados. Arrange your poke bowl with a scoop of rice, tuna, avocado, slaw, cucumber and pickle. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top. Serve with coriander and more soy sauce on the side.
“These vendors are the beating heart of communities round the globe
Ginger & Chilli’s Short Rib of Beef & Bone Marrow Sri Lankan Curry
Serves 4
Ingredients
For the Sri Lankan curry powder
1 tbsp uncooked long grain or basmati rice 50g coriander seeds
25g cumin seeds
25g fennel seeds
7½ cm piece cinnamon stick
1½ tsp fenugreek seeds
½ tsp cloves
½ tsp cardamom seeds
½ tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
3 dried red Kashmiri chillies
For the curry
2 tbsp coconut or vegetable oil
15 cm cinnamon stick, broken into smaller pieces 10 cardamom pods, bruised
10 cloves
350g onions or shallots, thinly sliced
40g garlic, crushed to a paste with the edge of a knife 25g fresh root ginger, peeled, finely grated
2 tbsp roasted Sri Lankan curry powder
1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
200g canned chopped tomatoes
20 fresh curry leaves
4 x 4 cm pieces pandan leaf (available from Asian grocers) 1 fat lemongrass stalk, outer leaves removed, cut in half, lightly bruised with the edge of a knife 2 green cayenne chillies, split lengthways 1 tsp salt, to taste
1 tsp sugar, to taste 400ml canned coconut milk 750g–800g short rib of beef (or brisket) 200g bone marrow (optional)
1 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
Steamed rice and roti
Method
For the curry powder, heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Add the rice and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan regularly, until the rice is toasted and pale goldenbrown. Transfer the rice to a large mortar or spice grinder and leave to cool. Repeat the dry-frying with the spices, then tip into a bowl and leave to cool. Repeat the dry-frying with the chillies, tip into a bowl and leave to cool. When the rice, spices and chillies have cooled, grind them to a fine powder. The curry powder can be stored in an airtight jar for up to three months. For the curry heat the oil in a large, heavy-based casserole dish eg Le Creuset. Make sure it’s got a lid. Add the cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, cloves and curry leaves, and fry for 15-20 seconds until fragrant.
Add the onions or shallots and fry for 4-5 minutes until softened and pale golden brown. Add the garlic and ginger, stir well, and fry for a further 2-3 minutes.
Stir in two tablespoons of your curry powder, the chilli powder and ground turmeric and fry for a further minute. Add the beef ribs and piece of marrow bone and quickly fry on all sides to get a bit of colour on the meat and bones. Add the chopped tomatoes, coconut milk, pandan leaf, lemongrass stalk, cayenne chillies, sugar and salt. Cover the pan with a lid and simmer over a low to medium heat. Simmer for 3-4 hours until the beef is tender and starting to come off the bone. Make sure the curry doesn’t dry out. If it’s too dry add a splash of water. Stir in the lime juice and remove the pan from the heat. Serve with steamed rice, coconut chutney and a roti.