CHOOSING TACKLE
What to consider when looking at rods, reels and line
With such an array of rods available, it can be quite daunting to choose what you need, especially as some tackle manufacturers have spotted an opening in the market and are producing kayak fishing rods.
Sadly, these aren’t always the most suitable, and have often been designed without the experience of kayak use, being overly short. Likewise, many standard rods are too long. So what should we consider when looking at rods?
To begin with, ascertain how much length you will require to lead a fish around the bow of your kayak, because there will be times when this becomes necessary.
Typically, 7-8ft is about right and, fortunately, this is a common size for both boat and spinning rods. This is also an ideal size for casting baits away from the kayak, playing fish alongside and getting a sufficient spread when trolling.
Next, look at butt length; there needs to be sufficient length to secure it into rod holders, while not being overly long so that fish can be landed easily by swinging into the kayak or pulled over the gunnel without reaching out and compromising the vessel’s stability.
For general bait fishing, something in the 12/20lb-class is the most suitable, having enough power to strike into a decent fish and still be sporting, although heavier rods might be required if targeting larger species. They are also suitable for feathering and jigging, and will happily take tope.
Currently, I use two or three 20/30lbclass Maxximus STS Solid Carbons (weightier due to the extra flex in this material), which are great fun in lighter flows, and with fish that hook themselves, such as rays and hounds. However, I wish I still had their 12/20lb rods because they were a delight for setting hooks into cod in tide when using a heavy lead weight.
The same length is also suitable for trolling, although I prefer more play in a rod to add movement to the lure. For this, I favour spinning rods, these being absolutely great sport with bass from schoolies up to low doubles. They’re also great for lighter fishing in areas with less flow that require less weight to hold bottom, or when targeting smaller species, plus they’re an absolute pleasure for bream fishing.
A spinning rod can also provide good sport for feathering and bait fishing, while retaining enough power to land a decent fish, should one come along. Currently, my kayak rods consist of a trio of 7-28g Rockfish LRF rods for trolling, casting lures and fishing a set of sabiki lures and small baits in species hunts and competitions
Finally, it’s very importantly to protect your investment; I’ve lost plenty of rods so leash it or lose it.
REEL SELECTION
The choice between a fixed-spool reel and a multiplier is down to personal preference, however, the latter is better suited to use on a kayak for various reasons.
Multipliers are easier to clean and service, and the drag systems tend to hold up better to exposure to the sea. Being more compact, they also save space in cluttered areas, and make casting and playing fish easier. Components such as graphite and stainless steel resist corrosion, and the effects of sand and grit become less pronounced.
I’ve owned a few different multipliers over recent years. For hard work, I love my pair of Maxximus LD15 lever-drags. They’re solid and dependable; I can immediately alter the drag if a fish wants to fight back. They’re also heavy and quite bulky, though, so I mostly use the lighter Warbird 3600 for my general fishing.
I did have some marvellous sport for a season with the tiny Warbird 220, though, and had a bit of a competition running between a bunch of kayak anglers who all got them. We had hounds into low doubles, bass to 5lb and good thornback rays on them to see how far we could go with the limited line capacity and cranking power – it was all about using the rod.
For lighter fishing, spinning and shallow water, a baitcaster is ideal, although they do need greater attention paid to aftercare. Being small, they typically hold limited line and don’t have the power of larger reels, so aren’t well suited for cranking in heavy weights and large bottom feeders. However, they are good sporting reels for bass and smoothhound fishing, especially when matched with a spinning rod.
WHY BRAID IS BEST
One of the greatest advances in fishing over recent decades is with the development of braided mainline. Thinner in diameter for its strength than monofilament and without the stretch, this gives superior bite detection, especially on a moving platform such as a kayak. The result is a greater proportion of successful hook-ups.
While there is no need to have the breaking strains required for beachcasting, a 40lb braid has the diameter of a far lighter mono, and enough can be fitted on to a reel to suit most applications. Overkill, perhaps, in terms of strength, but with a lower abrasionresistance, it is worth being over-gunned; setting a lighter drag still gives the impression of being sporting.
Thicker braid is also easier to untangle should an overrun occur, and there is no reason to go lighter unless the water is really clear. Money is saved, too, because you can pull out of more snags than with a braid of half the strength.
In clearer water it is worth adding a leader of fluorocarbon. With a refractive index close to that of water, this is said to be invisible to fish; how much it translates to additional catches is debatable, but if it increases confidence, then why not?
Featuring more stretch than braid, but less than mono, and being more resistant to abrasion, it is a useful addition to the armoury, and can also be relied on to snap before the braided mainline if you get stuck in a snag. In addition, it is a great material for snoods and traces due to its stiffness and invisibility.